Low lights, smoke, and ominous, booming music set the scene for Sabyasachi’s dramatic Amazon India Couture Week 2015 show. The line, sexier and much darker than the designer’s previous work – emphasised by his concept notes, which included words such as “bondage”, “vengeance,” and even “grim” – saw models wearing heavily-shaded lids, feathered eyelashes, and Bordeaux lips, with severe, centre-parted hair. Sabyasachi left behind the volume of past collections for more structured and draped pieces that hewed to the figure, so that various indigenous embroidery techniques in gleaming material, such as zardozi and badla work, shimmered down the length of the body.
Black and blood red pieces, and champagne and bronze work on off-white and ecru material, defined the palette of the show. Bedazzled capes over bralets and gown skirts, and slinking saris with mesh, frilled skirts were among the silhouettes. Flashes of shoes designed by Christian Louboutin were visible – particularly, of course, those visceral red soles. The platformed ultra-high heels also featured glittering gold detail on white. The pieces might not be fit for the conventional bride, but they’ll make a fine trousseau for a gothically-inclined one.
Photographs: Gulshan Sachdeva