We’d expect nothing less than high drama from Gaurav Gupta at Amazon India Couture Week 2015, and by the sound of it, that’s exactly what he’ll deliver: “I dwell a lot on magic; I see things in a surreal way,” he tells us. As his mood board indicates, “The concept for the collection is an enchanted forest. The clothes [for this collection] are floating in time.” Silt and Cipher, the collection’s evocative title, also gestures at what we’ll see on the runway: “My characters are like silt: they come along and wash away, as if through a sieve – they have a withering quality. The collection is cleaner and more confident [than previous collections] but more temperamental: the skirts have drama. They’re abstract in their construction – amorphous shapes that still fall fluidly.” However, there’s also sharp structural work: “I usually do a mermaid look. This time, it’s about cinched waists, with corsetry and boning – a Cinderella look.” Gupta describes the embroidery – which won’t deviate from the indigenous techniques and patterns he’s used in the past – as “tonal”: “Like things growing out of the cloth and growing back in.” Flip through the photos above to see some of that work up close.
You may also want to read: Sneak peek: Monisha Jaising’s line for Amazon India Couture Week 2015