Veteran designer Ritu Kumar’s forthcoming showcase ‘Varanasi Weaves’, for Lakmé Fashion Week Winter/Festive 2015, aims to revive handloom weaves. The show will be presented against a dramatic backdrop of an audio-visual project, recently shot in Varanasi. “My aim was to use rich Indian textiles to their full potential. The Banarasi weave is India’s USP and we are probably the last place in the world to still use gold and silver weaving on silk,” says Kumar. Expect cut work chudidars, Banarasi saris, coats in lampas weaves and lehengas. Lots of separates to help you mix and match.
The presentation begins with gossamer white-on-white cut work made in contemporary styles. Next see the revival of the Banarasi sari. Kumar has used softer fabrics and designs in order to appeal to a much younger audience. Then come the lampas weave, spotted largely in monasteries in Bhutan and Tibet. “We’ve used this rich sophisticated weave effect to create a collection of coats,” adds Kumar. The last segment of the collection includes cocktail and bridal wear – khada dupattas, lehengas, chudidars and farshi pyjamas among other designs.
The fabrics
The collection makes use of rich fabrics like Banarasi silks, white-on-white chanderi silks, cotton-silk weaves for saris, and very heavy satins for the coats.The bridal collection uses georgette, silks, and velvet (blouses).
The colour palette
For starters we’ll be seeing the rani pink on her runway after a long time. Lots of aubergine, brown, purple, peacock blue and gold hues.
The details
Lots of vintage designs; motifs such as the badaam, kairi, shikargah and stylised floral butis.
PS: Win a couples’ pass to Ritu Kumar’s show on August 27, 7:30 pm, at the Palladium Hotel, Mumbai. Just tell us why you love Ritu Kumar’s clothes. Also, add the hashtag #varanasiweaves at the end of your answer. Don’t forget to to go like Ritu Kumar’s Facebook page. The winner will be announced on August 27. Watch this space.
Flip through the gallery for a glimpse of the collection
You may also want to read: First Look: Abu Jani & Sandeep Khosla for Lakmé Fashion Week Winter/Festive 2015
