There was a time when anti-ageing was predominantly targeted at women 30 and above to reduce signs of ageing. However, with the growth of social media and unrealistic beauty standards cultivated by influencers, there is an increasing fear of premature ageing being instilled in the younger generation. We’ve been conditioned into disliking the look of wrinkles and associating beauty with youth so much so that even teens are experimenting with anti-ageing products and preventative botox. Reddit is flooded with queries like “wrinkles under eye in early 20s?”, “premature ageing at 16, what are my options?”, “what should I (22 F) do to prevent wrinkles” etc. For me personally, I’d be lying if I said I don’t have a cabinet full of ‘youth enhancing’ products, and I’m 22— but is anti-ageing really is something to be taken seriously at this age? Here’s what the experts have to say:
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Anti-Ageing In Your 20s
Anti-ageing looks different in your 20s than it would do in your 50s. When we’re younger, the focus should be more on prevention whereas as we grow older, it becomes more about correction— both are equally important. Rather than putting yourself through intense procedures that are not suited for younger skin, the main anti-ageing skincare goal in your 20s should be about protecting your skin so you won’t have to take more drastic steps when you’re older. “Skin ageing typically begins around the age of 25. Our bodies gradually stop producing as much collagen as they used to, causing our skin to lose elasticity. While there is no turning back the clock, early prevention is pivotal. In your twenties, you’re likely to notice the first signs of ageing, though these can vary from person to person depending on your genes and lifestyle. Dull skin, dryness, sun spots, puffy under eyes, visible pores, and fine lines are all possibilities. Skin damage frequently begins in childhood and progresses throughout the years. Even if you are young, you can begin to ward off signs of ageing by using a skincare regimen that nourishes the skin – and by practising proper preventive care.” says Dr Niketa Sonavane, Celebrity Dermatologist and founder of Ambrosia Aesthetics, Mumbai.
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Does this mean we’re supposed to start slathering on anti-ageing products that our mothers use?
Nope. “The best anti-ageing product for a person in their 20s is a good sunscreen with an anti-oxidant. Why do I say this? 90% of the damage that happens to our skin is because of UV radiation or damage from sun exposure. Go for a sunscreen that is SPF 40 and higher with PA rating of ++++. Apply it at least 20 minutes before you leave the house and reapply it every 3-4 hours during sun exposure.” says Dr Chytra, award-winning celebrity dermatologist and founder of Kosmoderma Clinics.
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Vitamin C is a great antioxidant that can also be incorporated into your routine. “It protects skin cells from free radical damage caused by UV exposure, and stimulates the production of collagen, which has the potential to thicken the dermis, prevent fine lines, and is necessary for firm, youthful skin,” explains Dr Niketa.
“When picking out a Vitamin C serum, it is critical that you look at what kind it is— the body absorbs L ascorbic acid which is the most active and potent form of Vitamin C. What is important to remember in the Vitamin C serum on its own can oxidate because it is extremely volatile as a molecule. Adding ferulic acid to that would be great because it helps to stabilize the vitamin C. You can use a sunscreen with a built-in Vitamin C like the sun protect gel from SkinQ or you could use a Vitamin C serum and then after 10-15 minutes use a sunscreen on top,” shares Dr Chytra.
Dr Chytra recommends adding a Vitamin C serum into your daytime skincare routine. At night, you could use a moisturizer with ceramides to repair the skin barrier and hyaluronic acid to hydrate the skin, Vitamin E is also a great antioxidant to help cell repair. “Beyond this, there is retinol, bakuchi oil or peptides which help increase cell turnover rate which is better suited for ages 25 and over. It and best is to increase the effective ingredients in a slow manner like 1-2 times a week at first, gradually moving to alternate days and then introduce it on daily basis to avoid excessive purging or sensitivity of the skin.” she shares.
Adding to the conversation, Dr Niketa says, “Retinol is a part of prevention, you don’t have to wait until you notice signs of ageing, such as fine lines or crow’s feet, to begin using it. Retinoids teach ageing cells how to behave like youthful, healthier cells by increasing cell turnover. Over-the-counter medications work well and are designed to be gentler. You don’t need super strong formulas at this point because skin cell turnover is just starting to slow down.”
Busting Myths
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“People think visible pores are a sign of ageing. In youngsters, what it really is about is oil secretion— controlling oil secretion will reduce the pore size. But after 35 years if you start seeing pores that you haven’t had before, it shows that your skin is getting sluggish, and the collagen and elastin production has gone down. Please understand that using creams will not erase or clear those pores. It can delay further pores and it can delay pores from opening up further but it can’t reverse open pores. For that, you will need to use a laser treatment with a dermatologist.” concludes Dr Chytra.
