12 new jewellery designers to know
Whatever your style, these rising stars have the treasures for you
Minimalist metal: Bjørg
While living in India, Norwegian designer Bjørg Nordli-Mathisen began to make two jewellery collections a year – one in silver and precious stones, the other in bronze. The collections borrow from the past and honour the balance between delicate and industrial, with all material in accordance with environmental preservation. Her clean aesthetic lends itself to graphic pendants with inscribed inspirational reminders and rose gold-plated ear cuffs.
Available at Shop.bjorgjewellery.com
ELLE LOVES: ‘The Great Perhaps’ choker that takes statement jewellery to a whole other level.
Dual tone: Himatsingka
Though she hails from a family of textile designers, Indian-born, Providence-based Priyadarshini Himatsingka has forged her own distinct path in jewellery design. Her work appears poetic, at times elegantly addressing contradictions: with silver and gold, or floral and geometric forms. These modern classics are easy-to-love, everyday pieces that can be layered or worn alone at day or night.
Available at Twistonline.com
ELLE LOVES: The neo-punk, soft-spiked necklace that goes perfectly with our normcore tee.
Chain reaction: Arielle de Pinto
Born and raised in Montreal, de Pinto was frequently seen about town hooking chains into a crochet structure. Credited with developing this new technique, she is now based in New York but has a team in Montreal that expertly crafts together unique pieces, including her signature mix of various metal tones, each developing a unique patina over time.
Available at Ssense.com
ELLE LOVES: The hardcore-meets-pretty earrings with the intricate woven mass of chain links.
Mixed Media: Lily Kamper
London-based designer Lily Kamper was quickly noticed upon graduation in 2012. Her studies in Mixed Media Textile Design are reflected in her unusual pieces – mixed ombré hues with gold hardware fastenings. She experiments with mixing dyes and
uses a lathe to cut her materials of choice, primarily perspex and resin. In an avatar far from its usual use in baths and kitchens, corian also features in the collection.
Available at Thecorner.com and Colette.fr
ELLE LOVES: We’re going crazy over anything marble-y, and this necklace hits the right spot.
Urban blocks: Malvika Vaswani
Formerly part of the duo behind jewellery brand Aunterra, Malvika Vaswani has launched an eponymous label drawing from a similar point of reference, looking to a minimal aesthetic and a “calculated measure to move away from wasteful decoration”. With extensive experience in design, and having worked with architects Rooshad Shroff and Pinakin Patel, Vaswani has a honed design sensibility, favouring fewer pieces that retain future value. Her debut collection embodies the Bauhaus aesthetic and uses warming rose gold.
For enquiries, contact Malvika@malvikavaswani.com
ELLE LOVES: The Art Deco-inspired pendant necklace, guaranteed to turn heads.
Animal magnetism: Daniela Villegas
The prospect of wearing insects is unlikely to top anyone’s list, but Villegas manages to make the notion of a centipede wrapped around your finger highly desirable. She creates pieces in gold and a brilliant array of gemstones, all drawn from nature’s symmetry and colours of the animal kingdom. As for the frequent appearance of the beetle, she remarks, “For me, beetles are like little jewels; the colours are different every time and there are some three million species all over the world. Just like my jewellery: all one of a kind.”
Available at Modaoperandi.com
ELLE LOVES: A new take on chandelier earrings – the creepy yet cool centipede danglers
Glass effect: Bangdar Sarali
Bangdar Sarali is the joint vision of fused glass artist Pooja Roy Yadav and jewellery designer Ikroop Dhillon, who aspired to create wearable art. Glass is melted in a kiln to be fused together in unique shapes, much like the traditional Murano glass technique. While it may not be a perfect science, the designs still manage to mimic the initial inspiration: a setting sun or a field of sunflowers. The glass is usually paired with a lotus or trishul motif, something the duo says keeps the brand ‘glocal’ and truly distinct.
Available at Nimai, New Delhi.
ELLE LOVES: The bright, cobwebby layers that cascade into a must-own necklace.
Street smart: Bhane
It started out as one of India’s only e-commerce apparel sites with a focused and consistent offering, but recently, Bhane expanded to include smartly designed jewellery as well. Developed by their in-house team, the pieces are on point with today’s thin, layer-able, don’t-think-twice pieces. Handcrafted and in a mix of gold, silver and matte black finishes, they remain committed to offering India contemporary style at accessible price points.
Available at Bhane, New Delhi and Bhane.com
ELLE LOVES: The origami metal animal brooches, for when you want to make a quiet statement.
Social humour: Khai Khai
With Leandra Medine from the Man Repeller as the face of their website, one expects smart, of-the-moment design commentary delivered with humour. Khai Khai manages just that kind of wit, with necklaces spelling out ‘Kale’, that much-loved and over-hyped leafy green. Plus it helps that the founder and designer is Medine’s brother, Haim. Created to pander to our inner child, Khai Khai balances the grown-up in us with its use of gold and the finest natural stones. #Win.
Available at Stoneandstrand.com
ELLE LOVES: The-dinosaur-chasing-a-man set of earrings. Hilarious!
Modern Lustre: Melanie Georgacopoulos
Athens-raised, London-based designer Melanie Georgacopoulos explores modern classics while challenging the conventions usually associated with pearls (read: meant for older, elegant women). Her trademark is the use of sliced pearls, the revealed halves often set alongside a gradient of whole pearls. It’s an indulgent optic, and her pairing of ivory is topped by the occasional use of gold. The brand has three divisions: classic, couture and a collaborative line with Japanese fine jeweller Tasaki.
Available at Kavut.com and Colette.fr
ELLE LOVES: The ivory, split-pearl strand, which you can share with your mum.
Local luxe: Maiyet
When Maiyet appeared on the scene in 2013 with the intent to marry luxury and ethical sustainability, many were sceptical. Since then, their ability to develop a strong identity with exquisitely made garments and accessories has been heartening. Working with a partner NGO and producing in different countries, each piece is crafted by artisans responding to the local strength of a region – karigars in Rajasthan work expertly with diamond settings while Indonesian craftsmen carve ethically-sourced horn and bone.
Available at Maiyet.com and Barneys.com
ELLE LOVES: The stone pendant necklace, an ode to the Olsen twins’ boho-chic days.
Edgy elegance: Fernando Jorge
This São Paulo native stays true to Brazilian sensuality and a sense of adventure. In his settings, molten precious metals appear suspended in mid-air, fused with precious gems. Having spent a decade designing for other brands, Jorge launched his own line in 2010, and now divides his time between his London studio and São Paulo atelier. The result? A truly inspired collection, shaking up the world of fine jewellery in the best way possible.
Available at Net-a-porter.com
ELLE LOVES: The iridescence of opals and diamonds, set in a standout pair of earrings.