FIRST CUT is a new collaborative initiative by ELLE and FDCI for emerging designers that celebrates India’s freshest and most promising fashion talent.
Presenting FIRST CUT 2015:
Asa
A label that thrives on experimenting with textiles, dyes and design, thanks to Shreya Oza’s love for science. The mixed bag of textures, however, is forever underlined by simplicity and practicality.
SPRING/SUMMER 2016
Comprised of easy and forward silhouettes and a classic colour palette derived from natural dyes and handmade details, the S/S 2016 collection is a testament to integrated simplicity.
Dvibhumi
An independent label on a simple quest to find a contemporary identity for jewellery rooted in Asian heritage. Designer-founder Vsyhnavi N Doss’ signature aesthetic is one that is filled with restraint and respect as she dabbles with traditional motifs.
SPRING/SUMMER 2016
‘Rhythm-Rawa-Riyaz’ is based on the rigour and aesthetics of Indian classical music, expressed through the use of traditional granulation (rawa), clean lines, repetitive pat- terns and visual rhythm. Created in collaboration with artisans in Jaipur, the designs mostly use .925 Silver, and occasionally, brass and gold plating.
Instagram.com/design_by_dvibhumi
Example
Founders Moutushi Sarkar, Rituraj Singh and Anchal Bohra explore handmade techniques and local crafts (from Africa to Southeast Asia) to create optimistic, easy clothing that is tinged with heritage.
SPRING/SUMMER 2016
Kerala cotton dresses, bright bandhani pants and boxy robe jackets turn into a travel-friendly line, ‘Three Oceans’, that is infused with a summer-loving spirit.
Lola by Suman B
Clean and uncluttered, Suman B’s designs for Lola are a refreshing take on contemporary luxury. Fluid drapes, feminine shapes and soft structure make up the label’s USP.
SPRING/SUMMER 2016
A Mediterranean sun-kissed romance, where hues like ash gold, taupe, burgundy, pink and beige spread out on breezy fabrics that accentuate the form.
The Meraki Project
Using organic cotton, ikat textiles, linen and silks that are handwoven all over India, The Meraki Project by Sonali Pamnani is focused on fuss-free, eclectic and fun clothing.
SPRING/SUMMER 2016
Handwoven ikats mixed with beautiful linens in mustards, blues, whites, greys and pops of checks and stripes — this collection is about embracing the weird in every- one and having fun with it. There is a play between structure and flow, form and movement, where Indian textiles are elevated into modern, eclectic silhouettes.
Instagram.com/themerakiproject
Vitasta
With everyday luxury as its motto, Aditi Dhar’s Vitasta is an accessory brand committed to handmade design that disrupts the uniformity of mass produc- tion. Key details include Indian colours, functional shapes and tactile surfaces.
SPRING/SUMMER 2016
Based on the idea of asymmetry, the collection is called ‘Desafinado’ (a Portuguese musical term for something that is out of tune or off center). The line uses simple leather fringes, strips of leather and punch-work patterns to cut the volume and balance of a piece into asymmetric proportions.
Photographs: Nayantara Parikh; Model: Aditi Mishra; Make-up and Hair: Umang Vanshika