Exclusive: Eina Ahluwalia is out with a new collection
The designer's first major line in two years is also her foray into fine jewellery
It’s easy to see why everyone loves Eina Ahluwalia. Her jewellery tells stories, but it won’t force it down your throat; and to state the obvious, it’s pretty. She’s one of the rare designers to give us immediately identifiable pieces – remember those paper boats from the Old Fashioned collection or those ‘pyaar’ necklaces from All We Need Is Love?
Now, after almost two years of ramping things up on the production end, she’s out with a major collection called Paradisiac. It’s also her foray into gold fine jewellery. In an exclusive interview, Ahluwalia fills us in on what inspired the latest collection – and you’ll also see why fashion favourite Ekta Rajani plays the perfect muse:
What’s the theme?
“Paradisiac is about accepting our unique perfection, while also understanding that no matter how different we are, essentially, we are all the same.”
How did you settle on it?
“I know that each of us struggles with accepting and embracing ourselves because we are held against impossibly high standards of perfection.
When I was young, I didn’t feel beautiful because I had curly hair. I wasn’t exactly thin either. My voice was thick, my hands too square, feet too broad, and my pores too open. Sardarnis were supposed to be beautiful, feminine girls with long, straight, beautiful hair down till their slender hips. I wondered, what had happened to me?
But it gets easier with practice. Today, I am a shockingly happy 40-year-old, single, childless, fattish woman with whites sticking out of my curly hair. I don’t cook, can’t drive, am a terrible singer, and won’t wear heels. Paradisiac was meant to serve as a reminder on our journey of acceptance.”
This is also your first attempt at fine jewellery. Why did you think it was time?
“They say that the legend of alchemists turning common metals into gold is actually a parable for the human quest to change greed, hate and selfishness into kindness, truthfulness and wisdom through the process of self-purification. An alchemist would tell you that all human beings contain in their inmost centre a precious grain of this elementary gold.
Gold is the alchemic symbolic of perfection in all matter. It does not oxidise in air or water, is highly conductive to electricity, and is one of the least reactive metals. It is symbolic of flexibility on our spiritual path, and because of its resistance to heat and acid, gold is a symbol of immutability, eternity and perfection.
So as a part of Paradisiac, we just had to introduce a line in 18k gold to serve as a totem for our journey of inner magic and transformation.”
Could you elaborate on some of our favourite pieces – The Cult Of Venus Mother Goddesses?
“The earliest known artistic representations of the female form are the Paleolithic Venus figurines, unearthed across Europe, and dated between 35,000 BC and 10,000 BC. These little women are believed to symbolise feminine beauty, fertility, abundance and hope for survival and longevity. Another theory says these may have been powerful Mother Goddesses, who were worshiped and regarded as the source of all life. Their ability to give birth was shrouded in mystery and divinity, and these matriarchal societies were harmonious and peaceful communities where women’s lives were liberal, socially and sexually.
If we look at these Venuses across centuries, we see clearly how the ideals of beauty are ever changing. Our four Venuses are reminders of the impermanence of physical beauty, and reinforce the timelessness of feminine power and divinity.”
As necklaces, the line features Venus of Hohle Fels, Germany 35,000 BC; Venus of Dolni Vestonice, Czech Republic, 28,000 BC; Venus of Willendorf, Austria, 24,000 BC; Venus of Yuliyevich, Russia, 16,000 BC.
The rings and earrings clubbed under Blueprint Of Creation are all intricately patterned – and are all designed to fit the Golden Ratio. Could you elaborate on it?
“From the farthest reaches of the cosmos to the atomic structure of a single cell within the body, the same laws of form and mathematics apply to everything in nature. It’s symbolic of our oneness; and it’s a continuous reminder of our relationship to the whole.
We are all created on the same geometric archetypes, we are each perfect fractals of the same whole; no matter how different our physicality may be, and we are essentially all the same.”
Which is the one piece we’ll see you wearing often?
“From all three sets of motifs I have individual favourites! From Blueprint Of Creation my favourites are the ‘Sacred Geometry’ lariat necklace and ‘Sacred Geometry’ two-finger ring, both in 18k gold.
From the Cult Of The Venus Mother Goddesses, my favourite is the Venus of Hohle Fels.
From the Archetypes Of Perfection my favourite is the ‘Sirena’ brooch and pendant – by now you may know I am partial to brooches!”