“I love the idea of mixing vintage and modern,” says Manish Malhotra, on the show that opened Lakmé Fashion Week Summer/Resort 2014. For his collection, ‘Summer Affair’, Malhotra takes the age-old sari and gives it a contemporary twist – unlike any of the pre-stitched saris you’ve seen before. “I have done pre-stitched saris, for Deepika Padukone in Yeh Jawaani Hai Deewani (2013) and for Alia Bhatt for the upcoming 2 States,” he explains. But this time is different. “The pallu is shorter and the zipper is highlighted, like in a pair of trousers or a kurta,” he adds. Malhotra likens the highlighted zip of the sari to modern-day relationships and the emotions of the young. “They speak their mind, there’s nothing that’s hidden there. I find this very beautiful.”
Romance, in fact, is a theme that runs through the collection. The colours are softer – think plum pink, light green and beige; the fabrics like tulle and lace are fluid and the embroideries of zardosi and aari are subtle with a complete absence of gold and silver. The silhouettes retain the sexiness we saw in his Winter/Festive 2013 collection: expect low backs, in-cuts and slim trousers. Malhotra has also played the gender game with a sherwani for women to be paired with ankle-length trousers. And of course, that mix of vintage cuts with a contemporary feel. “For me, this summer is a lot about the richness of the garment.”