By Malini Banerji
Spring/Summer 2014 is your time to shine! Metallics may traditionally be reserved for the night, but this season, designers repositioned shimmering fabrics as super-glam daywear. Chain mail, sequins, lamé, brocade and foil – from heavy-duty sheen to subtle lustre – set the tone for the season.
Altuzarra, Emilio Pucci, Saint Laurent
Molten Metallics
New York-based designer Joseph Altuzarra sculpted body-skimming silhouettes in fabrics that look like liquid gold and silver; Versace’s sexy sheaths, Max Mara’s lamé skirts and Saint Laurent’s spangled dresses had us all starry-eyed. At Dior, Raf Simons sent out the house classics in silver jacquard, confirming the season’s obsession with metals, while Gaurav Gupta’s sinuous drapes were reminiscent of the alluring ’80s. Glistening metal’s potential for partying is undeniable, but its polished look can be worn during the day as well when combined with easy separates like a relaxed T-shirt or a crisp shirt. Take inspiration from Pucci and add high-octane glamour to an otherwise sporty look by adding a foiled oversized parka, walk the easier route with a twinkling pair of gold stilettos like the ones at Dolce & Gabbana, or go for a graphic yet feminine update like Proenza Schouler’s metallic glint on pleated skirts.
Lanvin, Gucci, Marc by Marc Jacobs
Luminous Colour
Rainbow hues with metallic finishes dominated the runway. Lanvin led the way with fluid lamé in a spectrum of colours, from mauves and pinks to yellows and greens, and Savio Jon’s fringed jackets in copper are perfect to set off a summer tan. Marc by Marc Jacobs’ mid-calf sheath in petrol-blue walks the fine line between flapper and nu rave while Gucci’s iridescent suit showcases luxe sportswear at its best. Christopher Kane’s pastel looks paid tribute to the ’90s, and everything glowed at the Rochas show as models walked down in glistening candy-coloured slip-dresses.
Amit Aggarwal, Tom Ford, Rajesh Pratap Singh
Surface Sparkle
Sequins, paillettes and mirrors celebrated a neo-rock attitude. Tom Ford’s fitted mini dresses were encrusted in sequinned shards that resembled a shiny (what else) disco ball, while Rajesh Pratap Singh’s mirror-embellished looks reinterpreted evening chic. Balmain’s elaborate chain-embellished bomber jackets and drop-waist dresses sprinkled with silver studs transformed simple separates into hard-to-ignore statement pieces. Giambattista Valli managed to strike a balance between muted and ostentatious with the use of gilded burlap, and Amit Aggarwal created a lace-like structure by shredding a metallic sheet for a sports-couture look.
Photographs: Imaxtree.Com/Alessandro Lucioni (Runway); Davide Gallizio (Backstage)
