Neha Dhupia takes you inside the V&A’s Fabric Of India exhibition

RAJESH PRATAP SINGH
Will be showing his ajrakh skull jacket and gamcha jacket (2009) 

“His jackets are interesting because of the reinterpretation of traditional techniques with fine tailoring”
— Divia Patel

‘The Fabric of India’, supported by Good Earth India, with thanks to Experion and Nirav Modi, is on at the V&A, London from October 3, 2015 – January 10, 2016. Vam.ac.uk 

Photographs: Abhay Singh; Styling: Nidhi Jacob; Art direction: Reshma Rajiwdekar; Make-up and Hair Daniel Bauer/Artist Factory

RAW MANGO BY SANJAY GARG
Will be showing his silk sari with 108 crows (2012)

“I have not changed much in the chanderi weave, but I’ve simplified the design and picked a motif, the very Indian crow, and used it in a graphic way”
— Sanjay Garg 

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RASHMI VARMA
Will be showing an indigo sari-dress (2015) 

“This is one of the best interpretations of the sari-dress — fun and simple to wear”
— Divia Patel

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RAHUL MISHRA
Will be showing his Lotus dress (2014)

“The entire Woolmark Prize-winning collection revolved around the Buddhist idea of an eight-petal lotus being the embryo of the world”
— Rahul Mishra

 “It is very important to Good Earth that we work on reviving and sustaining craft, as artisans are repositories of heritage traditions”
— Simran Lal

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ABU JANI & SANDEEP KHOSLA
Will be showing a mirrorwork costume from Devdas (2002) and chikankari sari (2014)

“They are known for reworking traditional techniques to create visually stunning clothes”
— Divia Patel

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Deciding what to wear is complicated for an Indian woman. It is not nearly as simple as picking the silhouette and colours, but runs far deeper. It is linked to occasions, the traditions related to those occasions, the weather and a love for history that travels with the times. And the only binding factor? Fabric.

In an ambitious move whose time was due, the Victoria & Albert Museum (V&A), London is exploring the history of Indian textiles, from the earliest known weaves to contemporary fashion. “As with all major V&A exhibitions, it has taken several years to research, conserve and secure the loans for the exhibition. It’s something we have been thinking about for longer, though,” says Divia Patel, curator of V&A’s Asia department, who worked with senior curator Rosemary Crill to put together the extensive exhibition. 

They found strong support in Good Earth, a lifestyle brand that champions the message of sustainable luxury in Indian craft. “For us, it is an ideal partnership, as it will be the first exhibition to fully explore the incomparably rich world of handmade textiles from India,” says Simran Lal, CEO of Good Earth. 

The showcase will feature fabrics of all kinds and vintages, including an 18th-century chintz tent belonging to Tipu Sultan, an exquisite Mughal hunting jacket from the 17th century and an imposing 16th-century south Indian wall hanging borrowed from India’s National Museum. Representing this millennium: an intricately-embellished wedding ensemble by Sabyasachi Mukherjee, a mirror-laden costume from Devdas (2002) by Abu Jani & Sandeep Khosla, plus several extraordinary examples of contemporary Indian design, from silk-screen prints to indigo-dyed sari-dresses. Prepare for the surge of pride.  

SABYASACHI
Will be showing a bride and groom ensemble, specially adapted for the V&A

“The wedding ensemble brings together multiple embroidery techniques, layers of handwoven fabrics and skilled craftsmanship to create a romantic and opulent aesthetic”
— Sabyasachi Mukherjee

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MANISH ARORA
Will be showing his Butterfly dress (2008), and embellished blouse and skirt (2015)

“He rethinks traditional Indian embroidery, appliqué and beading by enlarging it or applying it with a breathtaking level of detail”
— Divia Patel

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TULSI BY NEERU KUMAR
Will be showing an ikat sari (2013)

“This sari shows the possibilities of the ikat technique and how it can be made wearable today — a stunning combination of colour and geometry”
— Divia Patel

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‘MY VILLAGE’ BY RIMZIM DADU
Will be showing a patola weave blouse and skirt (2014)

“In the skirt, fine leather cords of different colours are painstakingly assembled and individually stitched to imitate a classic patola weave”
— Divia Patel

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KALLOL DATTA 1955 AND INDRANIL RAM KAMATH
Will be showing the ‘Suicide’ print sari (2011)

“It was around the time of my Fall/Winter 2010-11 line, ‘Remission’, that I started using the sari to aid in storytelling”
— Kallol Datta

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ABRAHAM & THAKORE
Will be showing their houndstooth sari and shirt (2010), and silk tunic and churidar (2014)

“The sari was part of a collection inspired by the relationship between menswear and womenswear in both Eastern and Western clothing traditions”
—   David Abraham

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PÉRO BY ANEETH ARORA
Will be showing a jamdani shirt and dress (2010)

“The pieces that have been chosen are very labour-intensive, and show the skill and finesse of craftspeople from different parts of India”
— Aneeth Arora

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