Designer duo Pankaj and Nidhi Ahuja have modestly made a pitch for easy-chic pret wear in the Indian fashion market, over their 12 year long journey in the business, and reimagined it in so many ways that the relevance is still intact. However, this season, the ace designers will be venturing into couture for the first time on Wednesday, July 24, with their Mosaiq collection on the India Couture Week runway.
For this collection, the NIFT alumni have set foot into a new territory with metallic tones, heavy hand-beading and crystallisation, which work exceedingly well against the silk, satin and organza, that forms the base of this collection.
Drawing inspiration from history and architecture, the Mosaiq collection is fit for modern-day brides and wedding parties. We caught up with Pankaj and Nidhi to chat about the duo’s debut into couture, their creative process and new ventures.
ELLE: You are venturing into couture with Mosaiq; what inspired this debut?
Nidhi Ahuja: Our collection draws inspiration from mosaic, an art form made by assembling small pieces of glass, ceramic or other materials and is often used as a decorative technique in architecture. It is known to have originated thousands of years ago but flourished in the 6th-15th century AD Byzantine empire, when it was gloriously used on walls and ceilings in basilicas and churches.
ELLE: This is your debut couture collection. What kept you away all these years?
Pankaj Ahuja: Pret was always our first love. We used couture techniques in our pret collections in ways of construction and design. Capturing the pret market, we felt it was time for us to expand to the couture market as that is the future. People will crave for the unique and precious in this world of mass production. The future generations are more aware of what they want and identify their style easily. They want to look different and clothes are a way of expression.
ELLE: Aditi Rao Hydari is walking the ramp for you. What qualities about her made you pick her as the showstopper?
NA: Aditi is the epitome of grace and beauty and has paved her own way in the industry with her sheer talent. We look forward to showcasing our new collection with her.
ELLE: What are the dominant qualities the Mosaiq collection carries?
NA: We’ve worked our graphic vibe and signature appliqué idea to assemble bits and pieces of different elements using mosaic-like technique to create this eclectic and spontaneous collection.
ELLE: Take us through the creative process—from inception to the final masterpiece.
PA: We have used our signatures like trapunto quilting on luxe fabrics like silks and satins. We’ve worked our graphic vibe and appliqué idea to assemble bits and pieces of different elements using mosaiq-like technique to create this eclectic and spontaneous collection that goes richer on metallic undertones. We have used lighter fabrics so that the clothes feel comfortable as well as glamorous.
ELLE: What’s next on your agenda in terms of new ventures?
PA: As of now, we look forward to receiving a good response to our Mosaiq collection and expanding it to the international market. We want to work on our future collections and build more on our couture line. Lots more to come!
Pankaj and Nidhi’s debut couture collection, Mosaiq, will be showcased on 24th July, 2019, at India Couture Week in New Delhi.
