Even after several successful showcases at the Paris Fashion Week over the years, you can hear the palpable nerves in Rahul Mishra’s voice as he talks about his latest couture collection at the Haute Couture Week. While it’s surreal to watch the end result unfold at a show in all its fashionable glory, it’s a different kind of wonder when you hear about its inception and progression. “This is my 15th show in Paris, but the excitement remains the same. Although I miss the physical energy and the madness, which is always euphoric, it’s been nice to be here and explore the talent within our country to collaborate with,” the designer shared.
(L-R) Hand-embroidered cape, sequined wide-legged trousers and hand-embroidered dress
The Shape of Air is a collection brewing in his mind ever since his pre-pandemic voyage to Santorini. It’s a concoction of his version of the beautiful island through the lens of the five elements of nature. Rahul brought to life the essence of his imagination through the only way he knows best, fashion. “When I travel, my mind is like a blank canvas. This time I had my inquisitive daughter, all of 4-years-old back then, ready with her questions about the cerulean blue water, the bright pink bougainvillaea and everything else mother nature has specifically designed for us. In the process of answering her questions, I began looking at things with an even keener perspective which later fuelled the inspiration for this collection. The entire island, like the rest of the world, is chaotically connected through the five elements of nature – earth, fire, water, air and space.”
“After I was back from my trip, I presented my team with the vision I had for this collection and made them feel like they were with me on the journey this whole time. Just like these elements that you can’t see and just feel, I wanted to translate the same energy through my couture line,” said Rahul.
(L-R) Concentric circle dress and cocoon-shaped dress
After looking closely at his labour of love from the past two years, one could easily see his observation come to life through his meticulously crafted ensembles. Each element was projected distinctly on the garments. “Earth was depicted through the various clusters of domes built on a volcanic rock in Santorini. This was embroidered in delicately designed layers in a strong shade of electric blue, white and a host of other colours. Just like in reality, as the cascading water is connected to the domes, the outfits follow the same continuation while infusing the sea as a component,” shared Rahul.
(L-R) Balloon sleeve sequin dress and fitted cape long dress
“The sun was our muse while thinking about the element of fire. Hues as dark as the coral pink and as light as the first glance of a peachy sunset were reimagined on the silhouettes using reflective sequins and silk threads, forming beautiful structures created with ruffles and frills.”
(L-R) Corset ruffle dress and exaggerated pantsuit
In his next set of tricks, Rahul took the toughest element, air and enveloped it abstractly. As the cotton-like clouds hover over the dainty flowers in every part of Santorini, he took that imagery and fabricated a similar exaggerated structure on the outfit by intelligently planting the bougainvillaeas in a pile of perfectly gathered tulle. Similarly, for space, the designer used a layer of fabric covering the garment creating an innovative bubble that is still functional and wearable.
Apart from his signature ribbon work technique, this collection carries a plethora of mix-medium methods in terms of surface ornamentation, attesting to Rahul’s strength as an acclaimed craftsman and his team of seasoned artisans who have proven their mettle.
(L-R) Cloud bubble dress and heart-shaped dress
Besides creating a traveller’s dream in couture this season, Rahul also managed to bring some homegrown powerhouses under one roof. “We gathered some of the best indigenous talents for our fashion film this time. Models like Avanti Nagrath, Ngusanou Seyie, Radhika Nair and Riya Sharma (all from different regions of the country) were a part of this shoot. We also had a special installation, Winds of Change by Ruchi Bakshi Sharma and Sanjeev Sharma.”
Model in an orange ombre attire posing across the installation
For the viewers, this collection will be unlike any other Rahul Mishra presentation, and the creative visionary is more than happy to disassociate from his trademark approach. “I am happy to have tried something different that was new for me in every way. While making this line, we faced a lot of challenges. There was no set pattern to follow, which was hard but also encouraging,” he shared.
Photo Courtesy: Rahul Mishra
