Sabyasachi’s first-ever jewellery collection is illogically beautiful
The designer serves up a double whammy of breath-taking
“Growing up, I spent hours rummaging through my mother and grandmothers’ jewellery cupboards. Their taste was simply exquisite. Perhaps, this is why I feel disappointed. Where has all the art gone?” questions designer Sabyasachi Mukherjee as he unfolds his Autumn/Winter ’17 couture extravaganza on Instagram. And you can blame the millennials’ minuscule attention span all you want, but you’ll always know where you were and what you were doing when Sabyasachi drops a new collection online.
The designer mined his childhood memories in Kolkata to treat us to five different lines: Gulkhand, Couture Bridal, Devi, the Heritage and Baroda collection. “Afternoon teas in Calcutta Club were all about ladies in organza and chiffon saris, coiffured hair, lacquered nails and rose-gold goggles. The red Chanel mouth and the dripping diamonds added to the decadence,” he recalls. Accordingly, his models paraded in slow-motion in an assortment of classic red silk matka saris, sumptuous baroque and antiquated zardosi.
The lush garments came with an array of lust-worthy baubles sketched by the designer himself. “When women wear my clothes, I invariably expect them to pair it with that kind of jewellery. But, I don’t find it here anymore. Perhaps it was this question that pushed me to find the answer,” he says.
Get your wishlists out and lust over every single piece from his couture collection.
Inside Sabyasachi’s A/W ’17 couture collection
How does the king of luxurious excess do fine jewellery? With precious Golconda necklaces, vintage briolettes and a smattering of delicate rubies.
You won't need to look too hard to place your finger on Sabyasachi's inspiration: His ode to Coco Chanel comes in the form of humble cotton saris, formidable Golconda diamonds, goggles, a bob and a bold red pout.
The next stop on Sabyasachi's moodboard was the regal state of Baroda. Glistening Kanjivarams, Maheshwaris and nostalgia-inducing tissue saris play a starring role, offset by heritage jewelry in 22 carat gold.
The Sabyasachi bride this season comes with a a rustic maheshwari tissue sari and a vintage polki necklace.
Not one to shy away from a challenge, Sabyasachi did coloured gemstones with a statement jadau choker that worked in pale uncut diamonds, sapphires and pearls.
If, like Sabyasachi, you've lost your heart to this Rajasthani aar too, opt for a muted tissue sari and let the statement emeralds do all the talking.
...Or as a minimalist sari adorned with a single borla.
His preferred Coromandel red silk matka sari gets another modern update. Wear it two ways: Either with statement Victorian diamonds for a special ceremony...
If there's one standout piece that you'll see splashed over Instagram and A-lister feeds, it is the Champakali lehenga paired with a lush polki neckpiece that he believes gives "the right degree of warmth and volume much needed to stand out on a wedding day."
Brides-to-be needn't fret about lack of options to choose from though: The designer followed up the Champakali stunner with an array of baroque lehengas drenched in deep burgundy velvet. The embroidery is the product of 3,700 hours of bringing hand appliqués, tea stained pearls, and vintage crystals to life.
Shoot location: Rambagh Palace, Jaipur