How a new breed of designers at Marni and Salvatore Ferragamo are giving MFW a much-needed makeover
Milan is shaking things up.
From Paul Andrew’s solid debut at Salvatore Ferragamo, to Luke and Lucie Meier’s strong sophomore collection for Jil Sander and Francesco Risso’s vibrant fourth collection at Marni, the subtle changing of the guard that has been happening in Milan is beginning to produce some buzz-worthy results and it’s made the city’s fashion week all the more interesting because of it.
At Marni, Francesco, a Prada alum, proved himself a master of colour with statement coats and dresses in a palette of rich, saturated colours like emerald green, ruby red, and Yves Klein Blue. His off-kilter colour pairings and graphics gave a cool, youthful edge to his shapes of choice which were either tent-like on top or full-skirted and nipped at the waist on bottom. There was beauty in the clothes but also in the way he gave them a uniquely ageless spin. He deftly mixed sport and glamour in a way that was relevant to a woman in any stage of life, 25 or 55.
Paul Andrew’s impressive debut at Salvatore Ferragamo also signalled a promising new era for the house. At a time in fashion when many collections can look too complicated and overwrought, his clothes stood out as a reminder that ease and wear ability should not be dirty words (in fact, the opposite – more designers should get back to these kinds of basics.)
There were no elaborate back stories or obscure cultural reference points for this collection, just swingy skirts, trousers and dresses, voluminous hooded capes and tailored coats — all with fluid, elongated lines in an autumnal palette of eggplant, khaki, tan and mustard.
In Andrew’s hands, the heavy staples of cold weather dressing in a major city — the anoraks, the trench coats, the suiting — have an appealing lightness. Great looking, functional clothes for day to day living. Imagine that.
From: ELLE UK