One of the first things fashion school teaches you is elements of design. The professor puts forward a challenge to depict a mood using just lines and dots in a box no bigger than 3×3 inches. Slowly, but surely, the shapes begin to take form to create a vision. And before long, what began as basic elements are soon full collections. This season, though, has been about the reverse journey.“More often than not, a trend is a reflection of our times. As our lives become more complex, we seek simplicity and structure, and feel a need to go back to the classics. This may be a reason for the return of geometry and cleaner silhouettes in fashion,” says Jaspreet Chandok, vice president and head (fashion), IMG Reliance.
At Lovebirds, large polka dots were seen on fluid silhouettes, Sonia Rykiel showcased lazy striped suits, and Jil Sander introduced sharp rectangular pouches with handles. But geometry isn’t a trend in the sense that it never really went away. So, what is it about these simple forms that has enticed designers season after season? Their versatility. Like Payal Khandwala rightly says, “Geometry isn’t something that comes and goes, it is perpetually there at the back of our minds. Even if I am planning a collection with florals for instance, the silhouettes will be a wrap skirt (which when laid flat, is actually a rectangle), or something of the sort, whose basics stem from geometry.”
She adds, “Two years ago, I made a collection literally inspired by geometry because I was studying it with my daughter. So, designers who are particular about line and proportion will always have it at the back of their minds. And although its true versions are seen this season, it always makes a guest appearance every now and then.”
These elemental shapes also have a way of creating incredible illusions when teased just a little. Case in point: monochrome masters Abraham & Thakore’s collection this season, spoke to the power of stripes. Singular, multiple, waved and blocked — the deceptively simple lines elevated an array of dhotis, saris, shift dresses and kurtas they created.
Payal Pratap, Huemn, 3.1 Phillip Lim, Guapa and Acne Studios, on the other hand, stuck to vertical versions in a range of colours. Building from stripes, checks too, were all over the runways. Rina Dhaka opened with a gingham ensemble: an off-shoulder dress finished with lace and tribal domino-like checks at the waist. péro by Aneeth Arora presented a childlike fantasy with uniform-style dresses interspersed with florals — ideal for a hot summer day.
But geometry goes beyond 2D designs, too. Khandwala, Wendell Rodricks and Arkins exhibited 3D creations featuring fluid pleats, exaggerated shoulders and larger-than-life motifs to give an edge to their looks. The theme extended across accessories and jewellery too. Shoes, bags and earrings were amplified to make a statement. Jacquemus’s trapeze-like kitten heel, Céline’s oversized tote (it resembles a blooming bucket), Cord’s Halo Sling bags or Ganjam’s Origami Collection, all reinforced the flavour.
What makes geometry the protagonist — as well as a classic style statement — is its ability to assimilate so easily into any wardrobe, without much manoeuvring. And now that fashion has interpreted it in every way possible, it’s your turn to make it your own.
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