Designer Shivani Pathak launched her London-based label Taal Noir’s inaugural collection at Paris Fashion Week in June 2018. Titled Mughal Sonata, the pieces paid homage to the legacy of the dynasty, known for its rich blend of Hindu, Islamic and European design influences. Strong hues and colourblocked enameling are the hallmarks of her creations, which are crafted in Jaipur. The 30-year-old designer lets us in on her process.
ELLE: What inspired you to launch the label?
Shivani Pathak : I’ve loved jewellery since I was a little girl. One of my earliest memories is of being about two years old and putting gold stickers on my earlobes, long before I had them pierced. Any time I had the chance, I would delve into my mother’s accessories box (I still do that, actually!). My hope is that Taal Noir will be a vehicle through which I can share India’s unique design narrative and contribute to keeping its techniques alive.
18K gold-plated brass, enamel, aluminium and spinel earrings, INR 34,532
18K gold-plated brass and gemstone ring, INR 13,812
ELLE: What materials dominate your collections?
SP: Metal, enamel and topaz. I love enamel. I was very keen to work with it because of its depth and beautiful texture.
18K gold-plated brass, enamel, aluminium and spinel necklace, INR 55,251
18K gold-plated brass, enamel and aluminium earrings, INR 45,582
ELLE: There is a play of vibrant colours in most of your pieces. Tell us more.
SP: The rich blues and greens in the collection are inspired by peacock plumes, which is a main motif in the Mughal Sonata collection. The peacock represents power, protection and royalty. But instead of using it in traditional Meenakari and gemstones, I opted for a contemporary application—large swathes of colourblocked enamel, rich anodised aluminium, and vibrant Swarovski topaz stones.
18K gold-plated brass and enamel necklace, INR 41,438
18K gold-plated brass, enamel, spinel and gem-stone earrings, INR 10,589
ELLE: Which is your favourite creation?
SP: The Waterfall earrings and the Mughal Archer’s rings.
ELLE: So, what’s your next collection like?
SP: Mid-February will see the launch of our S/S 2019 collection, an extension of our first line. It includes core designs from the previous range, with a new colourway inspired by flowers from the Mughal gardens, such as marigold. We added a modern twist by turning the orange into bright neon that is perfect for summer. We are also introducing metal-only pieces, which are perfect for our customers who love the Taal Noir shapes, but are colour shy. Taalnoir.com
