Louis Vuitton’s S/S 2019 line-up offers an innovative edge to contemporary designs
Creative director Nicolas Ghesquière traded trends for advanced tailoring
For Louis Vuitton’s Spring/ Summer RTW 2019 collection, creative director Nicolas Ghesquière traded trends for a grand showcase of advanced tailoring. The result was an engaging display of savoir faire at the iconic Louvre in the fashion capital of the world, Paris. The 47-look collection and the accompanying leather accessories featured a mix of motifs—colourful geometric paint strokes, marble effects, torsade print knits, acid pyramids, digital forests and even Asian flower jacquards affixed to fabrics using heat-application methods. Technologically-created fabrics like moulded rubber and deconstructed net mesh were played up with innovative sartorial twists in the form of ruches, pleats and malletage to pack on extra volume. The unique construction of sleeves with pleats and sturdy rope inserts emulated billowy leg-of-mutton forms, albeit much heavier in weight.
The vivid embroidery and embellishment was no less futuristic. Gigantic metal sequins, piercing silver branches, beaded scallops and chunky, metallic sequinned knits made commendable appearances, suited to the likes of sci-fi heroes and intergalactic space travellers. Technicolour LV monograms were made with thread-embroidered patches, while the geometric Trapèze and egg-shaped bags were made out of taïga and cowhide leather and shining galvanised brass hardware. Amidst all the innovation, the fine execution of craftsmanship, marriage of structure and softness stood out throughout the line. Every piece has a special play on artisanship and eccentricity— distinctive materials, innovative shapes and hand-perfected details.
RUNWAY TO REALITY: This cotton jersey dress features multicoloured intarsia knit patches and oversized sleeves with the ‘LV Tower’ and ‘LV Transformer’ prints from the S/S 2019 print glossary. Side pleats and sturdy rope inserts add volume to the sleeves. A ‘Salt Lake’ gel print patchwork is heat-fixed onto the left shoulder. The Louis Vuitton ‘City Guide’ logo print, developed on the base print, highlights the recurring adventure and travel theme of the atelier. The polyamide parka is crafted with drawstrings around the shoulder and waist to be worn in multiple ways. The hand-painted monogram makes an appearance on the drawstring tips.
The folds on either sleeve of this jersey dress are achieved by multiple levels of side pleats and rope inserts. The sleeves also feature the ‘LV Tower’ and ‘LV Transformer’ prints. The patchworks on the skirt are sown into the base fabric, while the gel patch is fixed by applying heat.
This one is an iconic look from the S/S 2019 showcase. The striking dress has all-over mesh enhanced with metallic sequinned embroidery. The sequins are first embroidered on a stretched elastic base. In the next few steps, the elastic is carefully relaxed, which allows the sequins to take different forms. This makes each piece stand out. The asymmetric shoulders have frames stuck to their ends from which the sleeves start. This technique helps retain the sleeve shape.
More textured sleeves and an oversized ‘LV Tower’ print affixed on the centre of the dress. A ‘Salt Lake’ gel patch is also added onto the dress using heat. The monogrammed belt tips and canvas collar tabs are hand-painted.
The making of these lace-up heels start from making the sketch of the individual shoe parts on the leather. Then, the individual parts are cut, sown and stuck to each other in the various stages of assembling. For the laces, holes are carefully made equidistant from each other on the leather. Once the eyelets are fixed on each raw hole, lace is passed through them. The laces have monogrammed hand painted canvas tips.
This look consists of a jersey velour dress with a colourful ‘Splash’ print inspired by Austrian-born architect Ettore Sottsass’s works. The print pays homage to the visionary with scattered LV monograms. An oversized ‘Crystal Rocket’ patch from LV’s S/S 2019 prints is featured on the front using the intarsia knitting technique. The shoulders feature a sequinned mesh embroidered on elastic. One-of-a-kind branch-like embellishments are placed on this base.
The Trapèze bag is an innovative addition to the S/S 2019 accessories line-up. As the name suggests, the bag is shaped like a trapezium and is crafted in taïga leather. It has a front flap locked by a brand new clasp inspired by the house’s classic trunks. All the hardware of the bag, including the clasp, chain and metal details are crafted in shining gold galvanised brass, adding a feminine and modern touch to the piece. Assembling a Trapèze bag takes between three to four hours.