Trend report: Fall/Winter 2014-15
The A to Z of fall fashion
BY NIDHI JACOB | September 2nd, 2014
Speak the new season’s language by brushing up on the A to Z of fall fashion. Click through for a look at what went down in style capitals around the world – from couture supermarkets to the new Mod Movement.
Photographs: Imaxtree.com/Alessandro Lucioni (Runway), Davide Gallizio (Backstage); Gulshan Sachdeva (Wifw), Benoit Peverelli (Backstage)
Military details made a comeback this fall – but with relaxed rules. Isabel Marant, Max Mara and Louis Vuitton retained the khaki-and-olive colour scheme while focusing on unexpected forms like ski pants, cascading jackets and school-uniform-like three-piece suits. Balmain, Balenciaga and Bibhu Mohapatra churned out classics with cargo pockets, cropped aviator jackets and parkas that mean serious business.
Max Mara FW14-15, Balmain FW14-15, Isabel Marant FW14-15, Fendi FW14-15 (pictured above)
Here’s a cosy idea: take your bed to work, come winter. Woollen squares of never-ending yardage, dressed up with checks and embroidered edges, are the next big thing in fall dressing. Take a cue from péro by Aneeth Arora’s countryside style of layering with pyjama pants and wellies, or find evening inspiration in Pia Pauro’s dressy comforter wrap, cinched at the waist with a belt and paired with sky-high booties.
péro by Aneeth Arora FW14-15 (pictured above)
If there’s one thing you need to invest in when the temperature drops, it’s the statement coat. Texture (at Nachiket Barve and Josh Goraya), colour (canary yellow at Mandira Wirk), print (Paromita Banerjee’s supersized squares and eastern monochrome patterns at Payal Pratap), shape (Rishta by Arjun Saluja’s bold cape) and updated classics (a silk trench at Abraham & Thakore and a felt duster at 431-88 by Shweta Kapur) – designers pushed the envelope on the coat front.
Payal Pratap FW14-15, 431-88 by Shweta Kapur FW14-15, Mandira Wirk FW14-15, Rishta by Arjun Saluja FW14-15 (pictured above)
Designers went back to shimmer for the evening with floor-sweeping gowns and cocktail dresses. Sequins were the preferred embellishment – all-over at Rehane and Saaj by Ankita, and in patterns like on Sanchita’s cascading skirt and Siddartha Tytler’s ornate cape. Prefer something more low-key? Get Kiran Uttam Ghosh’s pleated ensemble with controlled metallics, or tone down the glitz with layers of chiffon like Rabani & Rakha.
Saaj by Ankita FW14-15, Kiran Uttam Ghosh FW14-15, Rabani & Rakha FW14-15, Sanchita FW14-15 (pictured above)
Smaller details will make your ensemble this season, so stock up on these stylish accents. As you pile on the layers, draw all eyes to your waist with a standout belt like the broad 3D one at 3.1 Phillip Lim or the D-ring wrap at Michael Kors. Use gloves to dictate your mood – go ’80s in gold fingerless ones as seen at Moschino or channel ladylike elegance with a pearl-embellished pair, like at Emilia Wickstead. For jewellery, go the motif route – stars at Matthew Williamson, floral at Dolce & Gabbana and crouching men at Dior.
Dolce&Gabbana FW14-15, Alexander McQueen FW14-15, Burberry FW14-15, Balmain FW14-15, Moschino FW14-15, TOD's FW14-15 (pictured above, clockwise from left to right)
Designers went for flowy movement on the runway with fringe and feathers. Dropped waists at Roberto Cavalli lent the shredded edges a ’20s feel while Alexander McQueen took a heavily constructed, plumed route. Lanvin and Stella McCartney reworked the fringe into colour-blocked, fluid layers to add swish to their evening ensembles
Roberto Cavalli FW14-15 (pictured above)
Leopard print went versatile, with designers using the wild pattern in different avatars – primal with a safari edge at Balmain, dark and urban at Salvatore Ferragamo and street casual at Chloé. Want to start small with the bold print? Try it on as an accessory – Carven’s ’40s-style pumps or a boxy tote à la Tom Ford.
Salvatore Ferragamo FW14-15 (pictured above)
Sportswear continued to run ahead of the pack even as the season changed, except now it’s more grown-up and luxe than ever. Sanchita, Satya Paul and Rahul Mishra mixed metallics with staples like the bomber jacket and sweatshirt. Kallol Datta 1955 and Anand Bhushan tried experiments on the sporty vibe with slouchy shapes and surface texture. Josh Goraya, 431-88 by Shweta Kapur and Hemant & Nandita turned out sleek yet street versions of the trend.
Josh Goraya FW14-15, Hemant & Nandita FW14-15, Satya Paul FW14-15, 431-88 by Shweta Kapur FW14-15 (pictured above)
In the boot
Shoes of the season had a recurring theme – the boot. The ’60s Chelsea boot was seen at Mary Katrantzou, Valentino and Louis Vuitton in deep hues and colour-blocked patterns. A flat, rubber-soled boot, reminiscent of Dr Martens, showed up at Tod’s, Helmut Lang and Céline. At Alexander Wang, Versace and Prada, the boots were knee-high and super-sexy.
Valentino FW14-15, Alexander Wang FW14-15, Versace FW14-15, Mary Katrantzou FW14-15, Helmut Lang FW14-15, Louis Vuitton FW14-15 (pictured above, clockwise from left to right)
Asymmetry found many takers on the runway this season – in one-shoulder details or uneven hems. Rina Dhaka, Raakesh Agarvwal and Akaaro by Gaurav Jai Gupta focused on one-sided drapes, while Urvashi Kaur, Chhaya Mehrotra and Pinnacle by Shruti Sancheti created irregularity through layers.
Raakesh Agarvwal FW14-15, Kiran Uttam Ghosh FW14-15, Akaaro by Gaurav Jai Gupta FW14-15, Pinnacle by Shruti Sancheti FW14-15 (pictured above)
Grandmotherly skills with wool came to the fore with designers like Helmut Lang, Michael Kors, Marc Jacobs and Céline turning to traditional knits like cable, ribbed and faggoting. Cosy, supersized sweaters were seen at Acne Studios, Stella McCartney and Joseph – this season’s one-piece wonders.
Helmut Lang FW14-15 (pictured above)
Legends of fall
Designers turned storytellers and created garments infused with folklore and fantasy. Pia Pauro wove a story around a bohemian Indian princess in the Scottish Isles, while Pankaj & Nidhi set their collection against a backdrop of bullfights and brave matadors. With tribal embellishments and mythical prints, the runway was a line-up of exciting tales.
Payal Pratap FW14-15, Virtues by Ashish, Viral & Vikrant FW14-15, Pia Pauro FW14-15, Tanvi Kedia FW14-15 (pictured above)
Taking a conservative turn, a few designers created severe lines with serene styling – a nod to monk-like garb. JW Anderson had his models clad in stiff, high necks and tent-like, ankle-grazing dresses. And Marni’s Consuelo Castiglioni sent down a few tranquil looks in the middle of her maximalist line-up – white and olive in baggy robe-like silhouettes.
Marni FW14-15 (pictured above)
In a nod to the ’90s underground party girl, psychedelic prints and patterns resurfaced on the ramp. Marc by Marc Jacobs and Manish Arora went all the way with bouncy sneakers, bum bags and trippy slogans, while Dries Van Noten, Proenza Schouler and Peter Pilotto retained the coolness – morphed into a high-fashion feminine vibe.
Acne Studios FW14-15, Dries van Noten FW14-15, Peter Pilotto FW14-15, Manish Arora FW14-15 (pictured above)
Shapes and silhouettes went macro – cue Chloé’s oversized coats, Haider Ackermann’s angsty, never-ending sleeves and The Row’s ballooning pants. Volume was also focused on specific spots; at Givenchy, the hips were exaggerated with sculpted pockets, and Hermès created coats with broad lapels.
Chloé FW14-15 (pictured above)
Last season’s overnight discovery spiraled into a trend this season, and normcore now boasts a luxurious line-up. Superbly cut trousers at Joseph, the white sweater at Jil Sander, the camel coat at Hermès – all proved that staying under the radar has never been more fashionable.
Sportmax FW14-15, Jil Sander FW14-15, Hermès FW14-15, Joseph FW14-15 (pictured above)
The raised technique found many takers in the fashion community this fall. Frou Frou by Archana Rao converted the puffy detailing into ladylike volume, while Hemant & Nandita chose to experiment with faux leather while retaining its sporty vibe.
Frou Frou by Archana Rao FW14-15 (pictured above)
Scarlet was clearly the chosen hue of the season with repeated sightings on the runway. Fire-engine crimson was seen at Nikasha, Shantanu & Nikhil and Myoho by Kiran & Meghna. Kallol Datta 1955 took it up a notch by accenting the colour with metallic fabric, while Prama by Pratima Pandey set off the deep shade with black.
Shantanu & Nikhil FW14-15, Myoho by Kiran & Meghna FW14-15, Samant Chauhan FW14-15, Tarun Tahiliani FW14-15 (pictured above)
The Mod Movement was a key player in the mood boards of many shows – the Gucci girls channelled Jean Shrimpton as they walked down the runway in knee-high boots and shift dresses, Nicolas Ghesquière’s debut show at Louis Vuitton melded techniques from the future with the shapes of the ’60s and Valentino used op-art on A-line minidresses.
Gucci FW14-15 (pictured above)
Designers upped the ante with fabrics, creating a multitude of surfaces. Nachiket Barve patched strips of felt and paired them with faux leather while Rimzim Dadu wove and curled corded leather to create a coat. Vaishali S shredded fabric, Mrinalini braided the yarns and Akaaro by Gaurav Jai Gupta mixed silk with metal to create tactile, wearable textures.
Vaishali S FW14-15, Akaaro by Gaurav Jai Gupta FW14-15, Nachiket Barve FW14-15, My Village by Rimzim Dadu FW14-15 (pictured above)
The sari came back as a multidimensional, multipurpose garment. Rishta by Arjun Saluja and Akaaro by Gaurav Jai Gupta stuck to familiar weaves but experimented with drapes and fabrics. Satya Paul showed off a striped sari paired with a cardigan and Ashima Leena created floaty, printed layers – perfect day-to night saris.
Rishta by Arjun Saluja FW14-15, Vineet Bahl FW14-15, Zubair Kirmani FW14-15, Anupamaa by Anupama Dayal FW14-15 (pictured above)
Velvet gold mine
A winter staple, the lush fabric continued to rule the season in solid hues – full suits at Emilio Pucci, slitted ombré gowns at Elie Saab and cowl-neck dresses at Jason Wu. Rich velvet is perfectly suited for the evening, but Tom Ford’s shift dresses and Nina Ricci’s champagne-coloured easy separates proved that the peach finish is equally viable for the day.
Emilio Pucci FW14-15 (pictured above)
Bags of the moment fell into contrasting categories – the maxi tote vs the mini messenger. Burberry’s painterly tote, Fendi’s bright Peekaboo bag, Emporio Armani’s chain-link sling and Prada’s silver miniature are everyday It bags in varying sizes. Have something to say? Try talking bags with messages that are loud and clear.
Burberry FW14-15, House of Holland FW14-15, Max Mara FW14-15, Saint Laurent FW14-15, Anya Hindmarch FW14-15, Tommy Hilfiger FW14-15 (pictured above, clockwise from left to right)
Evening wear took the naughty route this fall, with designers turning to see-through fabrics for the night. Showing lots of skin, Namrata Joshipura, Malini Ramani, Pankaj & Nidhi and Raakesh Agarvwal embellished generously to provide shine and texture in strategic places. Definitely not one for wallflowers!
Pankaj & Nidhi FW14-15, Raakesh Agarvwal FW14-15, Malini Ramani FW14-15, Soltee by Sulakshana Monga FW14-15 (pictured above)
Abandoning the predictable dark colour palette for winter, designers chose happy tones to brighten the landscape. Bright-on-bright was popular with Versace and Dior, while Altuzarra, Bottega Veneta and Vionnet chose a pop of colour against a deep, neutral backdrop.
Dior FW14-15, Vionnet FW14-15, Versace FW14-15, Prabal Gurung FW14-15 (pictured above)
The humble zipper turned into a key inspiration for fall. Stella McCartney used the raw, open edges as embellishment and Alexander Wang created graphic blocks on skinny trousers and parkas by criss crossing black zippers at Balenciaga. For his own label, he highlighted the zips through neon patches.
Stella McCartney FW14-15 (pictured above)