Why you should be wearing: Delpozo
Couture finish, standout colour, structured shape – this Spanish label is hot right now
Given how rooted Jesús del Pozo was in his hometown of Madrid, Spain, it was no surprise that he started his eponymous label in 1974 in that very city. His designs and perfumes would soon make it one of the most renowned houses in the country. After his death in 2011, the brand was revived and revamped as Delpozo under the creative direction of Josep Font, who retained the heritage of del Pozo’s work but modernised it with architectural (Font originally trained as an architect) techniques and smart business moves that included showing at New York Fashion Week.
Font, who has previously shown his namesake label at Paris Haute Couture Week, uses the same level of detailing, finishing and craftsmanship at Delpozo. The line is filled with couture level confections but in everyday feminine styles. This season in particular, surface textures have a unique touch. Font explains, “We have applied tubular crinoline in the embroidery, which has been used for the first time, combined with small crystals, sequins and strass.”
Font draws from his architectural background when creating the silhouettes at Delpozo. He uses bustles, cording and 3D textures to sculpt wearable ensembles, and plays with frothy, light-as-air fabrics, setting them in tent-like shapes. Even his prints show a deep understanding of structure and proportion, from scalloped edges to arched bustlines.
A bright presence on the runway ever since its first New York Fashion Week showing in S/S 2013, Delpozo has maintained its remarkable colour stories. Canary yellow with dusty nude in S/S 2013, fleshy pink with Kelly Green in F/W 2013-14 and an icy blue, navy and chartreuse combination in F/W 2014-15.
Font takes us through the poetic lines of the F/W 2014-15 line: “Lyrical Abstraction is a concept that is essential to this collection. Each piece is shown in its purest state, creating a feeling of timelessness and continuity in time. There has been research for new volumes and silhouettes such as regal, cone-shaped collars, raised sleeve-heads, hoods and capes. Taking inspiration from Italian artist Duilio Barnabé’s paintings, the garments come away from the body in A-lines that bring fluidity and movement.”