At age 19, Simon Porte Jacquemus set off to launch his own label in 2010. A self-taught designer, Jacquemus took inspiration from his childhood spent in the south of France, and merged it with modern minimalism and a tongue-in-cheek aesthetic. A twice-in-a-row finalist for the prestigious LVMH prize, and with past experience under Rei Kawakubo, he has now come to be known for his whimsical, nostalgia-filled creations.
Using the mundaneness of everyday as the core subject, Jacquemus often casts cool and carefree French girls as muses in his fashion films. In La Grande Motte, she takes her kid brothers to the pier for some icy coolers and then goes on a karaoke date, while in La Femme Enfant, she plays with plasticine while giving a tutorial on how to wear red lipstick. Blending French clichés with a ironic sense of humour is what makes Jacquemus’ brand of charm so darn irresistible.
Method to the madness
Known to convey a sense of irony through deconstruction, all Jacquemus pieces have a sense of effortlessness. Details like exaggerated boxy shapes, unexpected patches, a bikini made part of a classic white shirt, and even a second neckline that slouches below the shoulder, balance the eccentric with the basic.
The S/S 2015 collection, ‘Les parasols de Marseille’ saw a sea of cabana stripes in pink, red and yellow, all very reminiscent of a typical vacation in the south of France. The vibe of the range was decidedly nonchalant (trademark Jacquemus) with elements of juvenile naiveté that was apparent in the play of bold shapes and childlike motifs. There was also that cool-French-girl side to the line we love, with boxy silhouettes and slouchy navy pants.
Walk the line
Conveying dreamlike visions uninhibitedly with unexpected shapes and displaced silhouettes, Jacquemus draws inspiration from various art movements. In S/S 2015, hints of modernism are evident with angular shapes and primary colours at the core of the collection. Clues of surrealism are seen in the play of form and functionality of the garments, like this sharp one-shoulder dress, which could look like a pair of giant knickers askew.
Photographs: Instagram.com/jacquemus, Imaxtree.com/Alessandro Lucioni, Jacquemus.com