India Finally Has A Sunscreen Rulebook — Here’s What That Means for Your Skin

For years, sunscreen in India lived in a strange limbo: heavily marketed, widely misunderstood, inconsistently tested, and often overpromised. We knew our UV index was brutal, we knew pigmentation and tanning were national pastimes, and we also knew SPF claims varied wildly depending on who you asked. In late 2025, things finally changed. The Bureau of Indian Standards formalised a unified, globally aligned SPF testing method — the country’s first standardised approach to evaluating sun protection efficacy. It is, quite literally, a reset button for sunscreen in India.

This shift arrives at a time when conversations around SPF have reached a fever pitch. A viral social media investigation earlier this year thrust long-whispered concerns about formulation quality and inflated SPF numbers into the spotlight, pushing consumers to question what they were really putting on their skin. With this new regulation, sunscreen has gone from marketing moment to scientific mandate, and the implications are enormous.

Why This Change Matters

India’s UV index routinely sits between 9 and 16 in summer, yet only 3.3% of our population uses sunscreen regularly. Until now, brands were free to choose their testing methodology: some used in-vivo studies on human volunteers, others used in-vitro simulations, and some leaned on mathematical SPF modelling that often looked compelling in documents but unreliable on Indian skin in Indian weather. Without a common standard, SPF 50 on one label didn’t necessarily perform like SPF 50 on another.

The new BIS standard — IS 17494 — aligns India with globally recognised ISO in-vivo SPF testing. In simple terms: every brand claiming SPF 30, 50 or PA++++ must now prove it through the same scientifically validated test. For the first time, consumers can trust that numbers on boxes are rooted in the same process.

The Science (Without The Fear Mongering)

UV radiation has two primary components relevant to skin: UVB, which burns the skin, and UVA, which penetrates deeper and accelerates pigmentation, tanning, and long-term ageing. SPF measures UVB protection; PA measures UVA protection. Together, these numbers form the foundation of broad-spectrum protection, which dermatologists universally recommend.

Here’s the part most people misunderstand: SPF 30 blocks 97% of UVB rays, and SPF 50 blocks 98%. The difference is marginal. The real factors that change protection levels are application, reapplication, photostability, humidity, and sweat, all areas where Indian conditions complicate things.

Do Indians Really Need Sunscreen?

Absolutely! Our combination of high UV intensity, long outdoor commutes, tropical humidity, and melanin-driven pigmentation tendencies makes sun protection essential. Unprotected exposure leads to tanning, uneven skin tone, melasma, premature ageing, collagen breakdown, sensitivity, and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation — and those effects accumulate silently over time. Vitamin D concerns are often exaggerated; incidental sun exposure while commuting or being outdoors is more than enough for most people.

Understanding Why Sunscreens Fail

Indian consumers have long complained that sunscreens feel heavy, oily, sticky, or simply evaporate in the heat — all issues tied to formulation cost, photostability, and sensory design. In the absence of standardised testing, many SPF claims depended on the lab chosen, the model used, or the filters selected. The new BIS standard removes ambiguity and pushes brands towards hard science rather than creative interpretation.
This also changes how brands will approach R&D: improving photostability, investing in higher-quality filters, and balancing sensory wear with UV protection — a notoriously difficult combination in tropical climates.

Editorially, the focus must remain on the industry, not one brand. However, it’s worth acknowledging that several companies had been advocating for greater transparency long before BIS formalised the rules. Lakmē, for instance, has been conducting in-vivo SPF and PA testing for nearly a decade and has been engaged with regulatory bodies in conversations around sunscreen safety and testing. Their April 2025 #SPF50Truth100 initiative contributed to the pressure for clearer guidelines and consumer education — and now, with India officially adopting in-vivo protocols, that push aligns with national regulation.

How To Read Sunscreen Labels Like You Know What You're Doing

Now that testing is standardised, choosing a sunscreen becomes less about trend and more about literacy.

Look for:
• SPF 30 or 50 for everyday use
• PA++++ for UVA protection (critical for pigmentation)
• Broad-spectrum clearly mentioned
• Photostable UV filters
• Water resistance if you sweat or spend time outdoors
• Lightweight, comfortable sensory designed for hot climates
• ISO or in-vivo tested formulations (which will become common post-2026)
Skip the pseudoscience. “Chemical-free” means nothing. Everything — including water — is a chemical. What matters is safety, regulation, and dosage, all of which are now more strictly monitored.

The Real Rules Of SPF (Nobody Teaches This)

You can buy the most expensive SPF on the planet and still burn if you use it incorrectly.
• Apply two fingers’ worth for face and neck.
• Reapply every two hours outdoors.
• Apply before makeup, not after.
• Don’t forget the ears, hands, collarbone, nose bridge, hairline, and ankles.
• If you use actives like Vitamin C, AHAs, BHAs, or retinol, SPF becomes non-negotiable.
These basics matter more than the brand you pick.

What Happens Next?

From January 2026 onward, Indian sunscreen will operate under a unified scientific lens. Consumers will see clearer labelling, more transparent SPF claims, and more reliable formulas. Brands will be held accountable. Regulations will finally protect people, not marketing. More importantly, sunscreen will move from the “optional skincare step” category into a verified daily essential — treated with the seriousness it has always deserved.

For the first time, India’s SPF landscape has structure. This shift brings science, safety, and accountability into an industry that has relied on consumer trust for far too long. As the new testing standard rolls out, the products on shelves will become better, the education around SPF will get deeper, and the gap between what brands claim and what they deliver will finally narrow.

Sun protection has always been about longevity — of skin health, confidence, and clarity. Now, with regulation behind it, sunscreen in India can finally live up to its promise.