Sporting fervour has gripped the globe lately from the Paris 2024 Olympics and Wimbledon to the ICC T20 World Cup and UEFA European Championship. French luxury house Chanel decided to step onto the playing field too, with their latest ‘Haute Joaillerie Sport’ collection.
What relevance does sport have to a brand that is all about tweeds and pearls, one instantly wonders? But you only need to look at the House’s history to connect the dots. Founder Gabrielle Chanel who was an avid sportswoman, known to harbour a love for horseback riding, polo, golfing, skiing, yachting and fishing created a ‘sport’ atelier within her haute couture house way back in 1921 to bring ease and movement to her creations.
Cut to 2024, and Patrice Leguéreau, director of the Chanel Jewellery Creation Studio decided to borrow from the founder’s life an enduring source of inspiration for him. Leguéreau also previously added the lion symbol to the brand’s high jewellery vocabulary after Coco Chanel’s star sign and brought together this idea of elegance and performance in an 80-piece high jewellery line that is truly one-of-its-kind. “For the ‘Sport’ High Jewellery collection, I was inspired by Chanel’s sporty style, which is such an integral part of the House’s history,” says Leguéreau who brings a bejewelled take to athletic inspirations for the first time.
In this modern world where women are always on the move, they now seek practicality served with a mix of form and function in everything in their wardrobe: from their couture commissions and daily uniform to everyday diamonds and occasion wear jewels. So, an inspiration such as this only serves as a fitting sign of the times we inhabit. With this collection, Chanel also shuns its stiff upper lip to assume a more modern, relaxed iteration; echoing the mindset of today, but not devoid of the timeless reverence such collectables deserve. This delicate balance can be seen in the collection’s overall aesthetic, techniques used and the use of exceptional gemstones.
A Winning Look
The collection is designed to become part of the body like second skin, much like sportswear itself. So, it’s all about smooth contours, tapered styles and clean lines with colour, graphic and chevron detailing.
It’s also playful. Chanel breaks the rules of subtlety often followed by designer high jewellery and doesn’t shy away from making its own rules. Bringing in the brand’s name into the designs, which is being seen by many to be a bold, unconventional move. The word ‘Chanel’ has been introduced as an openwork imprint in many of the pieces—a first for their high jewellery line. There are also pieces that use a slightly distorted number 5 as a snap hook, another iconic symbol of the brand. And then there are the more obvious nods to sportswear—such as the ‘Sweater’ and ‘Gold Slider’ necklaces, with clever design reminiscent of a hoodie drawstring.
Set In Stone
Leguéreau consciously used coloured stones with vivid, luminous intensity. The sapphires, rubies, spinels, garnets, yellow diamonds and emeralds are all highly pigmented. The ‘Graphic Line’ necklace, for instance, features 24.35 carats of baguette-cut rubies in simple lines to evoke rhythm and speed. It is also set with a 10.15-carat cushion-cut sapphire, sourced from a set of five stones from Kashmir. It took more than five years to assemble this unique quintet ranging from 17.18 carats to 4.40 carats.
Form and Function
Functionality is key not just in design here, but also in the mechanisms and construction. Quick release fittings seen in sports equipment become clasps here, often placed at the centre of the piece rather than being concealed. Think a karabiner reimagined as the number 5, and a swivel clasp borrowed from the iconic 2.55 bag. Chanel’s quilted motif makes an appearance too, informed by openwork high-performance fabrics, like a supple mesh embellished with sports motifs.
But it’s not just the technicalities that set this collection apart. It’s exciting because it’s unserious. It’s fun. It’s pieces you can wear now, without having to wait for a momentous occasion. And therein lies its real victory, because this is a collection that really celebrates life and play.
