“I’d like to describe the menu we’ve chosen for you this evening as a journey from Thayir Sadam (curd rice in Tamil) to caviar and everything in between,” announced Chef Hussain Shahzad, Executive Chef at Hunger Inc. Hospitality, as I sat down for my dining experience at Papa’s, the new restaurant that sits right above the buzzing Veronica’s sandwich shop in Bandra, Mumbai. The culinary venture, which quickly became the talk of the town, comes from the team behind O Pedro, The Bombay Canteen, Bombay Sweet Shop and Veronica’s.
The name Papa’s honours the late Chef Floyd Cardoz, Shahzad’s mentor and the one who actually launched The Bombay Canteen and O Pedro. However, the cuisine at Papa’s reflects Chef Shahzad’s personal style.
Expect The Unexpected
I entered a space reminiscent of a 1980s-style Bandra home, filled with amusement, wonder and delight—a fine dining setup without the usual intimidation. “We wanted to replace formality with comfort, creating an environment where guests can truly relax and enjoy their meals. That’s how Papa’s was born. We conceived it as an intimate 12-seater chef’s counter restaurant which offers a dining adventure that is Indian in its soul and surprising in spirit. Fine dining is often seen as boring and stiff. Papa’s is about enjoying great food and cocktails in a fun, relaxed space,” the chef explains.
The menu is custom-made as per your dietary preferences, including your choice of spirit, which is noted when confirming your reservation. This level of exclusivity means the restaurant is able to operate only four times a week. “At Papa’s, we don’t want our diners to come with any rules or expectations. We just want them to trust us with their time, and we promise to make the experience special. We hope they come with an open mind,” chef Shahzad tells me.
Keeping up with the tradition of breaking stereotypes, my experience began at the bar, where I found the most bizarre drinks. Think methi thepla in the form of a drink (Fenugreek God), clams mixed in a cocktail (Sea Biscuit), or a concoction that tastes just like pizza (Papa’s Hut). The best part is these flavours work. After unwinding at the bar, you are directed to your seat towards the dining area, which is more of an Omakase-style chef’s table.
No Gimmicks
At Papa’s, Chef Shahzad puts on a show without relying on theatrics; it’s simply soul-satisfying preparations that don’t abide by the books. The first course, Watermelon Rasam, features trout, lime leaf, and roe to honour chef Cardoz. “The dish is inspired by his famous Watermelon Curry with Rice-Flaked Halibut at Tabla in New York. We’ve reinterpreted this dish using fresh Himalayan trout,” Chef Shahzad shares.
The team continued to dish out surprising flavour bombs—a British-style Wellington with a twist inspired by Kashmiri wazwan, modak stuffed with char siu pork, curd rice made with goat’s milk yoghurt and cheese with beetroot tartare, shiso leaf papad and garlic pickle emulsion, and duck biryani, a lovechild of the South Indian style Ambur biryani and Spanish paella, according to the chef.
For me, though, Bugs Bunny emerged as the winner. The cheeky dish features grilled rabbit meat (locally sourced from Nashik and dry-aged for three days) marinated in a red weaver ant chutney (sourced from Odisha) with black pepper, cumin, sumac and mushroom garum. “We serve it with a jowar pita and amla kosho, which is like a garlic hot sauce. This course is designed to be interactive. So I encourage diners to make shawarma out of it,” the chef says.
The dinner ended with experimental desserts—potato chips with ice cream and honey, brown sugar toast, blue cheese ice cream and fig jam–and with me making new friends. Because that’s the power of an intimate, 12-seater space with innovative and tasty food. It fosters fun conversations with strangers in a safe setting. Chef Shahzad, who shows up for every sitting, shares a similar sentiment. “The mixed bag of audience excites me because it allows me to engage with them, understand their preferences, and share live experiences during the meal. What’s also interesting is the diversity of reactions to the food. Witnessing it firsthand is both rewarding and enriching.”
Authenticity Is Overrated
While the Indian culinary industry is big on authentic experiences, many seem to be throwing this term around like confetti, diluting the very essence of it. Papa’s steps in as a breath of fresh air where Chef Shahzad invites you into his whimsical culinary world that translates on his plates of food. “Even traditional dishes like biryani started as someone’s innovation. For me, the focus is on creating forward-thinking Indian food driven by flavour and taste, rather than worrying about whether it is authentic.”
Read the full story on ELLE India’s new issue, or download your digital copy via Magzter.
