From alchemising local cultures with his audacious savoir-faire to crafting collectables at the crossroads of art and design, Christian Louboutin has seduced the fashion world like no other. Interviewing the designer over a Zoom call is like deep diving into the cerebral and the fantastical. Punctuated with cinema, arts, pop culture and design, Louboutin’s worldview is made richer by his travels and driven by an endless curiosity for the whimsical and the wonderful. I compliment him on the rodeo shirt he’s wearing, and he shares an interesting anecdote about it. “I collaborated with John Galliano for the Maison Margiela couture show (2024 Artisanal Collection), and he gave me this shirt, which I’m very fond of,” he says with a smile.
The visionary shoemaker took the recently concluded Paris Fashion Week by storm with ‘Paris is Louboutining’, a hypnotic artistic performance at Paris’s legendary Piscine Molitor. Co-created with artistic director David LaChapelle and choreographed by Blanca Li, the show celebrated dance in all its forms. “It was raining constantly, hence very wet, so people went from the wet streets to a very warm swimming pool. The whole thing was funny. It was a great moment for me, for the swimmers and the team. It was two days of filming and several days of rehearsals,” he shares.
A passionate Indophile, Christian’s penchant for Indian cinema, crafts, textiles and festivals informs this year’s CL Diwali edit. With charming pieces like Lady Bombay Diwali 85, Kate Diwali 85, Diwalina and Night of the Gange, the designer used Diwali as a moment to express his thoughts. “Every time I’m in India, I go to different places to see embroideries, sari borders, ribbons and brocades. So, it was nice to put them into a family. I was having a conversation with an Indian friend of mine who said, ‘When you’re not from a country, your vision of the country and the way you view it with an excited eye is quite interesting. Because that’s not the vision we may necessarily have, but it’s enriched with a lot of things we Indians take for granted as we’re used to seeing them. I was happy to hear that, and I took it as a compliment,” says the designer with a twinkle in his eye.
Among the leather goods, the Loubi54 and the Paloma clutch get a new spin. “Bags are easy to play with every season. Also, there’s no pressure like you have to walk in it. With shoes, it’s, ‘I’m carrying you,’ but you’re carrying the bag,” he says.
As an exquisite tribute to Louboutin’s profound affection for India, Salon L’Inde was recently presented at the Christian Louboutin boutique in Mumbai. An intriguing glimpse into Maison’s archives from 1995 to 2014, the showcase featured eight distinguished pieces—five women’s shoes, two men’s shoes and the meticulously crafted Pilotin Maharaja bag. One couldn’t help but ask him how he feels when he looks back at the archives. “I’m not nostalgic about the past at all. At the same time, it’s interesting for me to see the evolution of the design from the shape to the height of the heels. When I look at the archive, some things stay relevant, which makes me happy, while some don’t, which is normal too,” he says.
One wonders what it is about the rich Indian handicrafts and handlooms that find resonance with his personal aesthetic and viewpoint. “You’re asking me that question because you’re Indian. Being an Indian, you don’t realise the richness of India. When you think of weaving, artisanship, embroideries and weaves, the first country that comes to mind is India by far,” he says.
CL AW 24 draws from Texan iconography like rodeo-inspired denim and equestrian silhouettes accented with crystals. “I’ve been listening to a lot of country music. The starting point of the collection was Dolly Parton,” he says. From Dolly Parton to Diwali, Louboutin distils his visions, influences and emotions into pieces that combine the best of Photo Courtesy: Christian Louboutin innovation, functionality, and wonder.
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