If you’ve paid any attention at all to skincare this year, you would’ve noticed how ingredients such as hyaluronic acid, ceramides, peptides, niacinamide, and centella asiatica (cica) were star performers and featured in numerous formulations. So, we got in touch with leading dermatologists across the country to get their take on what they think will be the next big skincare ingredients of 2023. Get ready to be blown away because this list includes some skincare ingredients we’ve never even heard of! Here’s what they had to say…
Skincare Ingredients of 2023
Dr Chytra Anand, Celebrity Cosmetic Dermatologist, founder of Kosmoderma & SkinQ
The next big thing: The ingredient to reign in 2023 will be emblica. It is the extract from Indian gooseberry or Amla. In Ayurveda, it’s an important medical extract. With the amalgamation of ayurveda and modern beauty, I see emblica as being the next big ingredient. For many years, it has been used in non-mainstream skincare lines and soon I believe, this will explode into skincare industry.
Benefits for skin: It is a potent antioxidant so it fights free radical damage which is the most common skin injury today, after sun damage, due to the heightened pollution. It protects human fibroblasts from oxidative stress and hence has a role in anti-ageing. Amla is loaded with vitamin C and has photo-protective as well as skin brightening benefits.
Suitable for: It is suited to all skin types as is a natural antioxidant. In young skin, it offers protection and in mature skin, it plays a reparative role in collagen breakdown and oxidative stress.
Dr Madhuri Agarwal, Founder and Medical Director of Yavana Skin Aesthetics
The next big thing: In my opinion, colostrum is the one ingredient that could be trending in 2023. I use it a lot in my prescription as a supplement. Colostrum is the first breast milk that pregnant women express post-delivery. It is rich in antibodies, nutrients, vitamins and proteins. In skincare, it is derived from cows and is known as bovine colostrum. It is available in oral and topical skincare products. Currently, there aren’t many OTC products formulated with this ingredient in India, and only a few pharmaceutical companies provide it for dermatologists.
Benefits for skin: It is rich in potent immune protectant factors, growth hormones, amino acids and minerals. It is not repairs the skin barrier but can stimulate collagen too. It has benefits of anti-inflammation, plumping the skin and anti-ageing. Studies have shown it helps in boosting skin elasticity. It is also used in atopic dermatitis to reduce skin reactivity.
Suitable for: It is ideal for sensitive, irritated skin. It is also recommended for individuals starting with preventive anti-ageing and mature skin with their other active ingredients.
Dr. Jaishree Sharad, renowned cosmetic dermatologist, Author, and founder of Skinfinitii Aesthetic Skin and Laser Clinic
The next big thing: Retinol, in my opinion, will be one of the most popular skincare ingredients of 2023 and rightly so. It caters to all genders and all age groups–from teens with acne to those above 60 too for anti-ageing. It is a versatile ingredient with multiple benefits.
Benefits for skin: Retinol is vitamin A derivative. It regulates sebaceous gland activity, thereby helping to control oil secretion as well as acne. It causes mild exfoliation and helps to improve skin texture. It reduces pigmentation and helps to maintain an even skin tone. Retinol also stimulates collagen and elastin formation, thus helping in reduction of fine lines and size of pores. It even prevents wrinkle formation and improves the firmness of the skin.
Suitable for: Retinol should be used in the right quantity; an increased quantity will not give better results. It is best used at bedtime for better efficacy and is recommended for those with normal, oily, combination skin type. Those with dry skin can also use it under the guidance of a dermatologist. People in their late teens are prescribed retinal to reduce blackheads, whiteheads and pimples, while those above the age of 30 can use a retinol serum as a preventative skin care routine.
Dr Kiran Sethi, MD Skin & Aesthetic Specialist, Founder of Isya Aesthetics
The next big thing: Bakuchiol is one of the newest ingredients in the skincare market. With its impressive skincare resume and a myriad of benefits, I believe that this is going to be the ‘it’ ingredient in 2023. There’s no denying that retinol works like magic, but a crucial side effect associated with retinol is skin irritation, which stops it from being an effective anti-ageing remedy for many people with sensitive skin.
Since bakuchiol is a potent plant-based ingredient, it is a great alternative for people with sensitive skin. Moreover, unlike retinol that can counteract with certain other ingredients like vitamin C and benzoyl peroxide, bakuchiol is pretty safe to use with other ingredients in a skincare routine.
Benefits for skin: In a 2019 study published in The British Journal of Dermatology, no difference was found between retinol and bakuchiol in correcting wrinkles and hyperpigmentation. Bakuchiol is a super ingredient with antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, anti-bacterial and anti-acne properties. It speeds up skin cell regeneration and turnover to stimulate collagen production, giving you soothed, calm and plump skin that is also free from any wrinkles and fine lines.
Apart from its anti-acne and anti-ageing benefits, it can also work to fade dark spots, photo-damage and hyperpigmentation. But what really sets bakuchiol apart is the fact that its gentle formulation does not dry out or irritate the skin, making it suitable for use both, in the morning and at night.
Suitable for: Bakuchiol’s gentle property makes it suitable for all skin types. It is especially recommended for people with sensitive skin, due to its anti-irritant and non-drying characteristics.
Dr Rashmi Shetty, Celebrity Dermatologist, Founder & Creator of RA Skin and Aesthetics
The next big thing: One ingredient which might be the next buzzy ingredient is episomes. Episomes are things that communicate between cells. They’re best known as messengers between your various organelles (a small structure that performs a specific function) in the cell. It’s could be one of the next big skincare ingredients of 2023.
Benefits for skin: Episomes help with everything–brightening the skin, rejuvenating collagen, elastin, helping the mitochondria repair itself, and making the skin look younger.
Suitable for: It is suited to all skin types.
Dr. Geetika Mittal, Aesthetic physician and founder of ISAAC Luxe (International Skin & Anti-Aging Centre), an aesthetic clinic
The next big thing: In my opinion, retinol will be one of the most sought-after skincare ingredients of 2023. It performs multiple functions. Not only for adults but it is a wonder ingredient for teenagers also as it helps in treating active acne and reducing acne marks. It is a powerful ingredient for glowing, spotless, and healthy skin.
Benefits for skin: Retinol helps clear clogged pores and regulates sebum production in skin, and also treats active acne. It exfoliates your skin and helps decrease acne marks & pigmentation. It combats dullness in skin and gives you radiant-looking skin. It also increases collagen production and cell proliferation, which helps decrease appearance of fine lines, wrinkles and other signs of ageing. It gives an overall fresh, plump and healthy look to the skin.
Suitable for: Retinol works for all skin types, from oily to dry and mature to young. It might not be suitable for sensitive or allergy-prone skin. It is advisable to consult a dermatologist before using it on the face.