I woke up in the morning and opened the curtains to a breathtaking sight. The roofs, trees and roads were covered with thick layers of snow, reminding me of white Christmas, except I was witnessing it in March. I layered up, grabbed a hot cuppa and stepped onto the balcony of my luxurious apartment at Six Senses Residences & Spa in Courchevel 1850, France, to enjoy the crisp mountain air. After revelling in the quiet, the fog slowly cleared up to reveal yet another sight—the snow-capped peaks. The French Alps are an absolute beauty.
I spent four days in Courchevel, the world’s ski capital since 1946. Nestled across three valleys and six picturesque villages, each with altitudes ranging from 1100m to 1850m (and are also named after the height), Courchevel is a captivating destination that promises a winter experience like no other. With 47 hotels, over 100 restaurants (including six Michelin-starred establishments), and 102 ski slopes spanning 150 kilometres, it is a haven for winter enthusiasts seeking luxury, adventure and cultural richness.
On-Piste Action
“They’re not supposed to fit like regular shoes. If they’re too tight, the ski boots are perfect,” said the attendant when helping me with my ski equipment at the Six Senses ski shop a day before my first ski lesson.
Following a lavish breakfast, where perfectly crisp and flaky croissants were the highlight, made by a private chef, Francesco, at the five-bedroom apartment at the Six Senses, I headed out for my first ski lesson in heavy snowfall. We got to the ski lodge, suited up and headed to the slopes via Gucci-sponsored gondola lifts. From smooth-sailing greens and blues to daredevil blacks, the easy-to-difficulty level of skiing paths is carved by coloured poles. Meanwhile, beginners and little ones can start on the baby slopes known as the magic carpet.
From fixing the skis on our boots to walking with the skis on, our instructor patiently taught us how to go about the process. And once we eased into it, we tried our hand (or leg?) at skiing from a short slope. Bending my knees, leaning forward and placing my hands in the air like a bird opening its wings to fly, I descended the slope, lost balance and fell. Ah, well, not everyone succeeds on their first attempt, right? However, getting the hang of it took a few more bumps. Once I did, I could swerve one leg to control my motion and stop. My instructor was proud.
Courchevel’s slopes aren’t just for skiing, though. The destination is a vast playground for outdoor enthusiasts, packed with activities such as trail running, mountain biking, hiking, cycling, snowshoeing, and sledging, an activity I thoroughly enjoyed more than skiing.
Haute Offerings
For that dream skiing holiday, you can find the perfect hotel, mountain chalet, apartment or residence between the peaks or snow-covered forests. With meticulously designed interiors inspired by the traditional Alpine surroundings and infused with contemporary style, Six Senses Residences takes traditional mountain living to new heights. Following our snow escapades, we experienced the hotel’s wellness offerings, including a signature massage and the use of Normatec boots (a pulsing compression technology to massage the legs and increase circulation) for 30 minutes each. While Six Senses gave us the view of the Alps, our next 5-star hotel, The Alpes Hôtel du Pralong, put us on the slopes with my room facing the view of skiers in Moncler jackets and customised Chanel boots gliding down the pistes
Courchevel is also home to five palace hotels that give ski enthusiasts direct access to the slopes. In France, hotel rankings highlight the exceptional 5-star hotels by elevating them to palace status. While we didn’t stay in any of them, we got a tour of four luxurious lodgings and dined at their restaurants. For instance, Le Comptoir de l’Apogée at Palace Apogée (a part of the Oetker collection of hotels) gave me a taste of French cuisine with dishes like the Brittany lobster and sea bass. Fouquet’s, a restaurant at the Barrière les Neiges Palace, had one of the best roasted scallops I’ve eaten so far, along with duck fois gras. The view of the snowfall outside completed my experience at the restaurant; I couldn’t help but step outside with my glass of Hennessey to enjoy the snowflakes. On another day, we indulged in Lebanese cuisine at Base Camp By Ainata at Hotel K2 Altitude. With Tibetan-inspired interiors, the rooms and suites exude warmth and comfort.
We also got a tour of Les Airelles, the oldest mountain resort in Courchevel. Set against the backdrop of the Alps, the hotel looks like a castle straight out of a storybook and is frequented by the likes of the Prince and Princes of Wales, Beyoncé and David and Victoria Beckham. Austro-Hungarian castle spirit meets chalet style with pastel-coloured frescoes, coffered ceilings and coloured stained glass windows, reminiscent of a winter home, promising an unbeatable alpine experience. If you don’t get the chance to get a room in time here, ensure you drop by their restaurant, La Table des Airelles, which is known for its lavish buffet spread, where you’re spoilt for choice. Here, you’ll be able to complete your French dining experience by indulging in some escargots. Don’t miss the buffet of pastries made by the famed chef Cédric Grolet.
If you’re looking for something fun, drop by La Ferme Saint-Amour. Dig into some fondue with wine while a live singer entertains you with popular retro and pop tracks. For a casual, family-style dining experience, choose La Table de Madame at Hotel La Sivolier, where you can savour traditional hearty meals. On-slope restaurants are an option too—Il Rufigio whips up classic Italian meals, whereas Bagatelle lets you indulge in French Mediterranean classics while soaking up the sun at 1850 over the clouds.
Remember I mentioned Courchevel is home to six Michelin-star restaurants? I dined at one of them, which turned out to be my favourite experience. Le Sylvestre, the 2-Michelin star, 15-seater restaurant by Chef Sylvestre Wahid at Hotel Les Grandes Alpes, blends Pakistani flavours with French Cuisine. Here, the classic French Onion soup gets a scientific twist as the server comes and distils it in front of you. Another highlight includes an interactive one when we were asked to grind a spice mix, which then gets sprinkled on our next course—a multicoloured beetroot flower baked in a salt crust, puff pastry and grilled foie gras with Horseradish. With every new course, not only the wine but also the bread pairing would change. The dessert menu features lemon, seaweed and liquorice, rather unusual ingredients that blend seamlessly and come across as a refreshing summer burst on the palate. The real icing on the cake, though? Meeting the chef in person and getting a signed copy of his book.
Dream Vacation
With convenient access via international airports, just a 2.5-hour car drive from Geneva in Switzerland or Lyon in France, Courchevel’s allure is further heightened by prestigious events like the Women’s Alpine Skiing World Cup and World Ski Championships. But there’s more to Courchevel than its winter adventures. Soak in the town’s charm at 1850, with glistening snow and blue skies. Indulge in duty-free shopping with over 40 designer stores, including Chanel, Prada, Louis Vuitton, and more, lining the snow-covered streets of Avenue Montagne. Or explore the other villages—that’s exactly what I did. We drove down to Courchevel 1650, where we picked up Beaufort cheese as a souvenir from a local cheese shop and came across quaint cafes and restaurants with outdoor seating. Before we headed uphill, we sat by the La Praz Lake, gazing at its varying shades of blue and green. Courchevel may be a hot winter destination, but this side of the town was proof that it’s a must-visit even during the summer.
Photographs Courtesy: Courchevel Tourism, Les Airelles, Six Senses Residences, Gilles Trillard (Alpes Hôtel du Pralong), Le Sylvestre
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