Anita Dongre, easily one of the most successful designers in India, has been at the forefront of the Indian fashion landscape for nearly thirty years. Having brought a culture of thoughtful design and homegrown sensibilities to the masses, her signature has always prioritised the restructuring of fashion for the modern woman. Each garment is crafted by hand and uses social sustainability as its central theme – thereby giving birth to timeless classics.
She has now unveiled her bridal couture collection Raahi, which is a subtle nod to her most recognisable features, be it the characteristic electric blue colour or the authentic Gota patti lehengas. The mood board perfectly captures the essence of the modern Jaipuri bride whilst combining modern and traditional elements. Here’s our chat with the acclaimed designer.
ELLE: How has the bridal couture market evolved from when you started dabbling into it?
Anita Dongre: We started our journey designing for the modern Indian woman, and still stay true to her aesthetic and desires. We design for the bride who wants to wear lightweight, effortlessly comfortable lehengas and dance at her own wedding. We were the first brand to introduce pockets in lehengas and I feel designing with that female gaze and insight makes us relevant even today. The heartwarming shift I’ve seen in brides over the years is how much thought they’re putting into re-wearing the outfit they pick. It’s lovely to see them choose consciously and mindfully.
ELLE: What are the 3 biggest Indian bridal couture trends of 2024?
Anita Dongre: I don’t believe in trends. For me – Comfort, Craft and Classic styles are evergreen.
ELLE: Do you turn to the Western market for inspiration at times? If yes, then how so?
Anita Dongre: Well, I started my career with a western wear label, our brand AND, so contemporary silhouettes are a natural part of my design language. My true passion lies in celebrating and preserving Indian crafts. I hold the rich heritage of our exquisite crafts in the highest regard and am dedicated to their sustained existence through my work. The intersection of contemporary influences and our legacy craftsmanship is our aesthetic signature.
ELLE: What’s your favourite thing about Gota and Pichhwai.
Anita Dongre: Gota holds a special place in my heart as it’s from my home state Rajasthan and was the first craft we worked with when we started our bridal line. It’s light and beautiful the way it catches the light. Pichhwai was also a serendipitous journey, I met the artisan painting frescoes in City Palace of Jaipur on a shoot and now he’s trained and set up a team of artisans that paints lehengas, bags and even panels in our store interiors. It’s been an incredible journey together. Working with our skilled artisans and keeping crafts alive is what keeps me going and fuels my creativity.
ELLE: Tell us about your bridal couture collection for 2024.
Anita Dongre: Raahi, our Bridal Couture Collection 2024, is a homage to the self-assured modern Indian woman, who celebrates her relationship with herself. We have brought back some of our house’s iconic elements like pure Gota patti lehengas and our signature shade of electric blue. The collection truly embodies the modern Jaipur bride as a mood board while presenting a contemporary aesthetic that harmoniously blends tradition with modernity.
Subtly handcrafted lehengas with pockets, allow her to dance at her own wedding and balance fashion with comfort and functionality. The hand-painted art of Pichhwai, Badla and Gota Patti from Rajasthan, the vibrant Bandhani from Gujarat, and the age-old weaves from Benaras are celebrated in a language that is global in its appeal.
ELLE: In what ways is the Delhi clientele different from the one in Mumbai?
Anita Dongre: The Delhi bridal clientele often prefers more intricate designs, reflecting their love for grandeur and heritage. In contrast, the Mumbai bridal clientele leans towards contemporary and versatile styles, blending tradition and modernity to suit their lifestyle. Both cities, however, share an equal appreciation for exquisite craftsmanship and detailing.
ELLE: If this collection would be a song, which one would it be and why?
Anita Dongre: The campaign film is an extension of the same philosophy, shot in Karauli Palace in Rajasthan, with a track specially created for the campaign. We mixed a Rajasthani folk track with English vocals to depict the heritage meets contemporary ethos of the brand.
Also Read: Which Indian Couture House Aligns With Your Personality Basis Your Zodiac Sign?
