When it comes to telling stories through couture, it’s about interpretation. Designer duo Pankaj and Nidhi get this right. The brand launches their latest collection titled ‘Toscano’, that transports you to the picturesque undulating landscape of the Tuscany region in Italy where terra firma meets aqua fluens in all its glory. In a conversation with ELLE, the designers share the details of their new collection and everything that’s gone into its making.
ELLE : What specifically drew you to the picturesque undulating landscape of the Tuscany region in Italy as the inspiration for your new collection?
Pankaj (P) : We are often inspired by the cultures and landscapes of different places when we have travelled to Tuscany. The region has a breathtaking, undulating landscape, and the colours of its foliage and topography are scintillating.
ELLE : How did you capture the essence of the terra firma and aqua fluens in your designs?
Nidhi (N) : The terrain of the landscape inspired the graphic artworks of dunes in the prints, each a different pattern offset against the aquatic hues of the Tyrrhenian Sea.
ELLE : Can you elaborate on the kaleidoscopic montage and the motifs of silhouetted florals and hand-sewn haberdashery in the collection?
P : The collection is a montage of vivid visuals, as seen through a kaleidoscope where the glass bits and baubles are replaced with sunlit flora and fauna patterns inspired by the local terrain. The embellishments add texture and depth and are hand sewn with felt buttons, fabric biscuits, and looped thread-work beading, enhancing its artisanal quality.
ELLE : What led you to incorporate bold graphic strokes in vivid hues, and how do they enhance the silhouettes?
N: The topography of the region has a vast sweeping quality to it and had to be expressed with bold strokes of line, the sight of multiple horizons in one breathtaking view was condensed into a vibrant graphic abstraction. Flowing silhouettes like sheer capes and maxis are wonderful holiday silhouettes that best embody the essence of the collection.
ELLE : Could you describe the artistic vigour that went into crafting the limited-edition textured pieces in the collection?
P : We revisited some of our signature latticework techniques by using satin fringes, specially printed with the colours and patterns of the collection and dextrously weaved them into the fabric with precision and balance. These, like the fringed Merino blazer dress, are special pieces that require time, patience and artistic hands to fashion.
ELLE : How did you choose the specific Mediterranean hues of turquoise, hibiscus, sand, and seafoam for the colour palette?
N : The hues are inspired by the landscape of the Tuscan region and the colour palette evokes a cheery wanderlust to swoon over natural beauty wherever one may find it.
ELLE : Can you share any details about the fabrics used, such as linens, chiffons, and diaphanous organzas, and how they contribute to the overall aesthetic?
P : As designers, we subconsciously know that the textile is 90% of the outfit – every fabric has been carefully selected and curated for this collection. There is a generous use of chiffons and organzas made completely with recycled yarn. There is also a fine weight of linen that works for dresses and unsurprisingly, as we head for fall, some fine merino wool is used in gilets and blazer dresses.
ELLE : Were there any particular challenges or unique aspects you encountered while creating this collection that you would like to highlight?
N: Not particularly, it was a joy to design and produce! The only challenge, if any, was to limit the number of designs and styles.
ELLE : How do you see this collection influencing or inspiring future fashion trends or themes in the industry?
P : This collection, like many, fulfils a need for a travel/holiday-ready wardrobe something many brands are consciously doing – especially as the world has opened up and holidays can happen in the spur of the moment and don’t necessarily conform to strict calendars anymore. As they say, it’s always summer somewhere.
