The man behind the revival of ancient techniques of weaving like Jamdani is Gaurang Shah, a fashion designer and textile revivalist. He has showcased his art at various prestigious fashion events and platforms globally, including the Lakmē Fashion Week x FDCI in India and other international fashion weeks. One of his notable achievements is the revival of Patan Patola and Jamdani. Patan Patola is a traditional form of double ikat weaving from Gujarat meanwhile Jamdani is a technique of weaving a detailed patterned, on pure cotton fabric, traditionally woven using a handloom by craftsmen around Dhaka. He has worked extensively with weavers to revive and promote these ancient crafts. This year, Shah is planning to bring an explosion of colours to the ramp with an emphasis on Gulal and the vibrancy of spring. ELLE had a chat with Gaurang Shah on his vision for his upcoming collection at Lakmē Fashion Week 2024 in partnership with FDCI.
ELLE: What was your vision while creating your collection for Lakmē Fashion Week?
Gaurang Shah (GS): My vision for this collection was to create a harmonious fusion of Phagun’s vibrancy and the kaleidoscopic hues of Gulal, all interwoven with the rich textiles of India from varied regions, and highlighting the weaves heritage. I aimed to evoke a sense of celebration and joy, capturing the essence of springtime festivities in every stitch and embellishment.
ELLE: In three words, describe your upcoming collection for Lakmē Fashion Week 2024.
GS: Radiant, Phagun fusion and Gulal.
ELLE: Describe the feeling of seeing your sketches come to life during a fashion show. How has it changed from the first time you saw one of your designs become a reality?
GS: Witnessing my sketches metamorphose into living, breathing creations on the runway is nothing short of enchanting. The intricate interplay of diverse textiles, meticulously crafted into sarees and ghagra, is an enrichment of my artistic vision. As 40 models gracefully walk in garments adorned with Gulal-inspired motifs, I am filled with anticipation, knowing that my collection will exceed the expectations of the discerning audience awaiting the unveiling.
With each successive show, spanning my illustrious 22-year career as a Jamdani exponent, I have unearthed new realms of creativity within this cherished weave technique called Jamdani. Each design iteration has been a journey to the boundless possibilities that textile artistry opens up for me. Yet, amidst the evolution, the thrill of witnessing the audience’s awe and appreciation remains a constant source of fulfilment, propelling me forward on this journey of sartorial innovation.
ELLE: If your collection was a song, which one would it be and why?
GS: If my collection were a symphony, it would reverberate with the soul-stirring rhythms of classical Indian music, echoing the intricate melodies of sitar and tabla. Just as every note intertwines, whether it be ghazals, poetry, or traditional dance forms, to craft a harmonious symphony of beauty, my designs seamlessly blend diverse elements of textile heritage, composing a visual opus that glorifies the timeless allure of Indian craftsmanship.
