The new generation of Indian designers is pushing the narrative, whether through exploration of traditional silhouettes, playing with myriad techniques or bringing in a new chapter of sustainability in fashion. ELLE chats with ten of the freshest, most original names defining this new wave.
That Antiquepiece
ELLE: How would you describe your design aesthetic and the key elements that define your signature style?
Yash Patil: At its core, That Antiquepiece’s design aesthetic is eclectic, wearable and maximalist. Art, inventiveness, awareness, and honesty are the pillars of my brand. The brand’s signature style comes alive with otherworldly silhouettes created using simple, layered pieces that draw inspiration from the past and evolve into something new. I focus on couture construction and tailoring individualistic pieces by shaping textiles and adding tactile texture.
Dhruv Bandil
ELLE: Can you share a moment or an experience that has had a significant impact on your journey as a fashion designer?
Dhruv Bandil: I was enthralled by an 11th-century temple ruin that stood tall, despite signs of age and neglect. The intricate carvings and statues depicted stories from a bygone era. They showcased women with grace, poise, and fortitude. This experience gave a new identity to my work, inspiring me to bring back the elegance, extravagance and power that represented Indian women through contemporary clothes. It became one of the reasons I design for. FASHION Forward Vaishnavi Mishra meets the upand- coming designers shaping the fashion industry’s future.
Acel
ELLE: What have been some of the craziest and wildest sources of inspiration for your brand?
Sufia Lambrou & Aarna Salla: Our major inspiration has been Vivienne Westwood. Her philosophy of buying less and making it last inspired us to start our label and introduce this concept in India. We want to inspire people to look at quality over quantity. We focus mainly on corsetry because of the way it fits the body, and our dresses are usually custom-made. We believe that every outfit should fit the body like a glove so everybody can be confident in what they wear.
Meta Manthan
ELLE: How would you describe your design aesthetic that defines your signature style?
Manthan Yadav: We are inspired by nature, cultures, and anthropology. With a background in bio-science, we create innovative, boundary-pushing designs that challenge traditional norms. The brand allows its users to express their individuality and adapt to different occasions with its transformable garments. We combine fluid and dynamic silhouettes, contrasting materials, textures, colours, and layering techniques to create a visually striking aesthetic. We break free from norms and play a part in the cultural flux.
Bitchandtwosticks
ELLE: Why did you launch your fashion line, given the variety of ways creativity can be expressed?
Meghana Kiran: The whole idea of having my own line was overwhelming, to be honest. I just started posting, and it organically took off. I truly believe if things come to you without asking, then maybe it’s a sign. I have not stopped expressing my creativity because I have a line now and still want to experiment with different craft forms. My next exploration is with Plaster of Paris – I want to explore tufting techniques. I would never want to limit myself or put my creative energy to an end. I may just start tufting classes. The word is unstoppable!
Rhycni
ELLE: How would you describe your design aesthetic and the key elements that define your signature style?
Nikita & Raveena Galani: The brand experiments with different genres and creative fields. Not being able to predict what will come next drives us. There’s always an element of surprise, even for us as creators. The brand’s aesthetic is playing with abnormal volumes and using styling to create unique silhouettes. We always attempt to approach a piece from an editorial perspective before we put it to the test on the body. There is a lot of style in action, which influences how things will appear. The collection is formed through a process of play, with every colour working with every colour, and no restrictions or limitations. Innovation is what drives us.
Walking Vertical
ELLE: How would you describe your design aesthetic that defines your signature style?
Akash Patwal: My aesthetic is influenced by my personal experiences, daily chaos, and trusting the unconscious mind. Walking Vertical aims to create unique and functional designs. Our key elements include layering traditional surface techniques like patchwork, applique, hand embroidery, and dyeing. All our styles are unique and allow individuals to own one-of-a-kind pieces. This philosophy gives Walking Vertical a strong visual identity in today’s fast-paced fashion world.
Devi
ELLE: Can you share a moment or an experience that has had a significant impact on your journey as a fashion designer?
Debbie Kirsch: At Devï studios, we know the power of connection forged through craftsmanship and the indelible influence of storytelling in fashion. Under the ‘shared value’ concept, we desired to cultivate a deeper relationship between the producers and consumers, ensuring that everyone along the supply chain, including the artisans feel empowered and appreciated. As a result, we no longer consider ourselves solely ‘designers’ but also ‘storytellers.’ We firmly believe that clothes should transcend their visual form, embracing the narratives woven into their fabric and preserving them for future generations.
Karu Research
ELLE: How would you describe your design aesthetic that defines your signature style?
Kartik Kumra: The core premise of the brand is to celebrate and highlight domestic craftsmanship. No two kantha lines will be the same as natural imperfections arise due to the handmade nature of the work. In terms of silhouettes, there’s a lot of vintage workwear referencing primarily ‘20s Japanese and ‘40s American workwear, boxy tailoring and slouchy trousers from the ’80s Armani era. We fuse Indian tailoring codes with Western tailoring so the wearer can communicate some nonchalance.
Hikikomoriknits
ELLE: How would you describe your design aesthetic and the key elements that define your signature style?
Kavya Tiwari: Art is a window to emotions, and colours can help convey all the multitudes that a person can be throughout their lives. The brand’s designs are inspired by body inclusivity, individual tastes, practicality, and joy when viewed through their favourite colours. The key elements include asymmetrical patterns, chunky knit styles, vibrant colours, bouncy silhouettes, and a playful colour palette with bold textures. Our objective is to instil confidence and joy in the wearer.
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