We ask founders Bappaditya and Rumi Biswas, guided by curator Mira Sagar, what made Mumbai the right city for Bailou’s next chapter, and why it is the new voice of Colaba.
In the centre of the heart of the city, Colaba, Bailou weaves its next chapter from the colourful pulse of Mumbai to the legendary textiles of Calcutta. For the founders, Bappaditya and Rumi Biswas, under the direction of curator Mira Sagar, this relocation feels like fate, a complete circle back to the city where their journey began. Bailou Bombay is more than just a brand-new store; it's a bold declaration that handlooms belong in the nation's fashion capital.
/filters:format(webp)/elle-india/media/media_files/2026/01/29/16-2026-01-29-14-10-50.png)
Bailou creates unique textile pieces that preserve their traditional integrity while appealing to contemporary consumers by experimenting with yarns and design techniques. Bailou dedication to the handloom sector is further reinforced by support from audiences around the world and UNESCO's awarding of the Seal of Excellence for craft. In order to maintain the livelihoods of innumerable artisans and the rich legacy of Indian textiles, the company believes in encouraging individual expression and self-sufficiency within this skill.
Here, in a tranquil haven away from the bustle of the city, Bailou's unique language communicates to a new generation by fusing fluid, modern wearability with deep legacy- an old soul with a modern sensibility. It's a subtle invitation to indulge in luxury that is evident in every thoughtfully chosen thread and seamless drape. We delve into why their hope for the future of handlooms, their innate attraction to Mumbai, and the harmony between tradition and modernity.
“Calcutta is the City of Joy, while Mumbai is the City of Dreams!” quips Bappaditya Biswas, “Starting Bailou in Mumbai had always been a dream for us, and today that dream is finally coming true.”
“Colaba, in particular, holds deep meaning. Our very first exhibition in Mumbai was held there, at the Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Vastu Sangrahalaya in the Coomaraswamy Hall. Mira had organised that show after discovering our work at the Hyderabad Natural Dye Conference. She was deeply moved by our experimental weaves and felt they needed to be showcased in Mumbai. Opening Bailou in Colaba feels like a complete full circle.”
/filters:format(webp)/elle-india/media/media_files/2026/01/29/17-2026-01-29-14-09-34.png)
We ask him to describe Bailou’s contemporary handloom language today. “Reinventing tradition has always been Bailou’s strength. From day one, we have focused on keeping traditional skills alive while reinterpreting them through texture, colour, and form,” he says. Bailou strikesthe balance between old heritage and new optimism. “Our approach is contemporary, but our roots are traditional. A strong emphasis is placed on the drape, making textiles easy to wear, fluid, and suitable for modern lifestyles while remaining deeply handwoven.”
Traditional Indian clothing, such as saris, kurtas, and dupattas, has seemingly become less popular in urban India. This change raises questions about whether upcoming generations will continue to wear these classic pieces, particularly at important occasions like weddings. Although variation in women's clothes should ideally be encouraged by modern fashion, the reality indicates a trend towards a homogeneous style that is unrelated to Indian craft. Bailou aims to fill the gap through pieces with modern style, with a focus on heritage.
What, then, guides this balance between heritage and experimentation? Says Bappaditya Biswas, “Preserving the essence of tradition is essential to us. We never alter the loom’s infrastructure or introduce new skills to the weavers. Instead, we work within existing skills and knowledge. This boundary allows us to experiment creatively while ensuring that the integrity of the craft remains intact. That balance is what defines Bailou.”
The house believes in working with weavers, and not just fabrics. We ask how that translates into practice. “From the beginning, Bailou has been about creating sustainable livelihoods and better income opportunities for weaving communities. The community has always come before the cloth.”
“Fabric creation is a medium through which we support a sustainable way of life.”, he adds “Our business model is built around the weavers, their lifestyle, norms, and needs—and we work around those realities.”
“Mumbai is both the city of dreams and India’s fashion capital,” says Biswas when asked how Bailou, Bombay, will shape how handloom is perceived today. “If handloom can find its rightful place here, it can transform how it is viewed nationally. Our hope is that handloom is no longer seen merely as a category or occasion wear, but as an identity, something contemporary, relevant, and lived in.”
We ask the curator Mira Sagar how bringing Bailou to Mumbai felt. “The very first meeting with Bappa and Rumi felt instinctive,” she says, “My daughter and I walked into Bappa’s stall at the Natural Dye Conference and instantly connected with the textiles, the textures, and the philosophy behind them. There was an immediate comfort level. I remember my daughter, who is very particular about what she wears, buying her first handloom saree that day, almost 20 years ago. That moment made everything feel aligned. Even the decision to open the store came naturally, during a simple conversation where we realised the potential to showcase Bailou in all its glory.”
Mumbai boasts of a culturally aware, design-conscious audience. We ask her what sets Bailou apart from the likes of them. “Bailou’s distinctiveness lies in its design sensibility and the comfort of its textiles. Handwoven fabrics carry the essence of the weaver and the designer, and that energy is felt when the textile is worn,” she answers. “Mumbai hasn’t had much exposure to this kind of handloom rich in texture, refined in colour, and contemporary in feel. Bailou fills that gap.”
Mira believes that true luxury never needs to announce itself. “Bailou textiles offer ease of wear, ease of movement, and ease of confidence. Bappa pays close attention to how a fabric falls and drapes on the body. Comfort naturally translates into confidence, and that is true luxury.” “Luxury is also the time a weaver spends placing each thread by hand,”, she adds, “That patience and process are embedded in every piece we create.”
“Bombay is receptive to new ideas, especially when they are authentic,” she says when asked how she sees the city responding to Bailou’s design language. “The design language at Bailou is very different from the handloom Mumbai has traditionally seen, whether in texture, colour, or sensibility. With Bappa’s design approach, we believe Bombay will not only appreciate Bailou but truly enjoy wearing it.”
We ask her what kind of customer do you see walking into Bailou Bombay, and what she hopes they experience. “Our loyal Bailou patrons will definitely walk in, but we are especially hopeful about attracting a younger generation. It’s time to pass the baton forward!” she says, adding, “We have carried handlooms for the past 20–30 years. Now, the younger generation must take it ahead. We hope they walk in, connect with Bailou’s contemporary designs, and begin their own journey with handloom.”
So if you're in the city of dreams, indulge in contemporary weaves and interpretations and bring the charm of Indian clothing to your wardrobe this winter with Bailou. With Rumi and Bappaditya Biswa’s dedication to maintaining this art form while simultaneously having their pulse on modern trends and consumer expectations, Bailou's world encourages a new generation to value and love Indian textiles by striking a balance between contemporary sensibilities and traditional methods.
/elle-india/media/agency_attachments/2026/01/15/2026-01-15t094302816z-logo-2-2026-01-15-15-13-15.jpg)
/elle-india/media/agency_attachments/2026/01/15/2026-01-15t094302816z-logo-2-2026-01-15-15-13-15.jpg)
/elle-india/media/media_files/2026/01/06/arts-and-culture_marayacouple_en_static_display_728x90-2026-01-06-15-30-18.jpg)
/elle-india/media/media_files/2026/01/29/18-2026-01-29-15-12-10.png)
/elle-india/media/media_files/2025/12/18/arts-and-culture_marayacouple_en_static_display_300x250-2025-12-18-11-05-09.jpg)
