Revisiting Meena Kumari’s Iconic Looks: From 'Pakeezah' To Her Personal Style

Known for her deeply-nuanced sensibilities and a long career despite a tragically-short life, the news of yesteryear icon Meena Kumari’s biopic has fuelled numerous rumours around the casting. Referred to as the ‘Tragedy Queen’ of Indian cinema, she was not only an exemplary actress, but also a style icon with looks etched into the annals of Indian cinema lineage. Cue Pakeezah—not many know she took up the mantle of designing many of her costumes from the movie, drawing upon the aesthetics of 19th-century Lucknow and Mughal courtly culture. 

A delay that lasted almost 14 years, upon the completion of Pakeezah’s filming and subsequent release, it was no surprise that the movie echoed the language of Kumari’s being. The film, directed by her then husband Kamal Amrohi, ironically allowed Meena Kumari to deeply influence the final look of the film in all merry aspects, especially the costuming. Through her role in designing her wardrobe and accessories, she turned film costuming into personal storytelling—a harbinger of the modern auteur-era. To this day, the fashion greats across the subcontinent reference her iconic looks as a gold standard of vintage Indian glamour.

Lavish, intricate, and historically resonant—the ghararas, odhnis and anarkalis employed the finest of opulent silks and brocades, which were heavily embellished with zardozi and gota work. Deep wine reds, ivory golds and midnight blues symbolised her character’s inner turmoil. And honestly, someone with a discerning eye could really say that the movie’s wardrobe wasn't merely decorative. It was a sign of the times, both reel and real, with regards to her. Underscoring courtesan Sahibjaan’s fragility in a stylistically refined setting, the jewellery too was period-accurate and thoughtfully layered. From the passas to maang tikas and naths, the theatrics and curation by Meena Kumari was off the charts. 

On the personal style grounds, grace and old-school femininity reigned superior. Her style was deeply understated but deliciously elegant–leaning more towards classic cotton, chiffon or silk saris draped in the traditional ‘seedha pallu style’. Akin to the beauty mandate of the time, brows enjoyed a superstar treatment—they were thick and generously filled. Eyes were kohled and lips painted in earth-toned mattes. Her hairstyles were traditionally Indian: buns adorned with gajras or long braids, perfectly in line with the demure femininity she projected.

Let's revisit some of her most iconic outfits on the screen:

The Emerald-Green Anarkali

She’s seen donning an elegant green velvet anarkali, doused in the wonder of zari embroidery, and a translucent dupatta for the iconic song Chalte Chalte. Widely documented as a self-designed number by Kumari herself, the Lucknowi influences stay winning, with this one.

The Vermilion Red Sari

Crafted in opulent silk—whether kanjeevaram or brocade, that’s not clear, but this drape found immortalisation in a Google Doodle tribute. The red odhni, laid over her head was used to reflect courtesan tradition. And the heavy gold border and layered jewellery reflected Mughal-era consort motifs, adding visual poetry to her tragic presence.

The White Widow Garb

Traditionally a widow’s attire, the white sari in the move was recontextualised. Gestured towards celebratory personal autonomy, her emancipatory white drape aligned with early independence-era symbolic wear, with the minimalist cut boasting of muted dignity and a bygone demurity.

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