Sex-Positive Couture: How BDSM Is Shaping Fashion’s Feminist Future

Long ago, pants on women were considered an audacious bet. The 21st century equivalent of that could be…latex and leather perhaps? You’ll see it on celebrities, high-fashion runways and c*nty campaigns but never on someone who’s grabbing a sandwich from across the street. Maybe a choker and corset combo at max—it’ll still be palatable for public consumption, especially in India as the BDSM-incarnate style is still radical for our somewhat vanilla counterparts.

If in case you’re a real goody two shoes, let’s break it down for you. The BDSM scene is an arm of the fetish world, encompassing bondage, discipline, sadomasochism, and power dynamics. News to no one, it’s been a rich source of inspiration for high fashion and has long infiltrated the runway and campaigns with a renewed urgency. This is probably the only place where it’s not lensed through a taboo-laced perspective, but more like a profound statement of empowerment and self-expression.

The most recent one being Ludovic de Saint Sernin's Autumn/Winter collection ‘25 collection L’Entretien which features supermodel Amelia Gray (love her) in provocative and commanding poses. For those familiar with the kink scene, one can tell that the campaign channels the intense and unspoken power dynamics we typically associate with BDSM. Shot in collaboration with Alejo Humanes and Lewis Gillooley, the latex and leather are seen cloaking the wearer in a very subversive manner—one that is impossible to ignore, obviously. What makes it feminist you may ask? Well, it’s about giving women the space to be both strong and sensual, without any shame attached. So.Very.Hot.

Enter another collection by Mugler. Titled Re/edit, the campaign is a sultry reimagining of their iconic looks, starring the effervescent yet sexily selective Sharon Stone—a star patron of the brand. In an homage to her legendary Basic Instinct role, she’s not just recreating that infamous interrogation scene, rather she’s flipping the power dynamics by making it more female gaze-y. Of course, there’s an ample dosage of Mugler’s razor-sharp tailoring, body-mapping cuts, and lingerie-as-outerwear. But here’s the kicker: Stone's unapologetic confidence makes the whole thing feel like a feminist statement, not a fetishised moment. The visuals are bomb. 

This trend, or should I say sub-culture has also permeated into high-profile, campy beauty brands, Isamaya Beauty being one of them. Their campaign with Julia Fox (an ex dominatrix) made waves for being provocative where you can see Fox suspended in a vacuum-sealed bag, where Fox is literally bound by her own image as people around her in latex prepare to apply makeup. It’s both unsettling and empowering in a way, echoing BDSM’s exploration of control and submission.

Back Then…

BDSM has long dabbled into avenues in the mainstream, especially music, emerging as a subculture in the ‘80s thanks to artists like Madonna and Depeche Mode and later reinvigorated by Lady Gaga and Rihanna as a part of their musical storytelling. Today, we are seeing a resurgence of this aesthetic, only now it feels like more than just a statement of style.

While it’s convenient to reduce the inclusion of kink in high-fashion storytelling as just an aesthetic choice—deep down, it’s an act of defiance. Political tensions are at an all time high with reproductive rights, women’s safety and queer acceptance facing tremendous pushback from conservatives. Thus, these provocative campaigns serve as visual protests and a bold assertion of one’s right to desire as they choose. Additionally, we love seeing hot people do hot things. Duh.

Also Read: 

Why India’s Queer Community Is Rewriting The Rules of Sex Education