In The Name Of LOVE: The Enduring Allure Of Cartier’s Iconic Bracelet

In a world where jewellery often walks the fine line between art and craftsmanship, Cartier has long stood as a beacon of timeless elegance, perpetuating an undeniable sense of sophistication across the globe. Pierre Rainero stands at the intersection of this legacy, steering the iconic house into the future while honouring the rich heritage that continues to define its allure. In a chat with ELLE, Rainero delves into his multifaceted role whilst shedding light on the evolution of Cartier’s iconic designs, especially the all-new LOVE Unlimited. 

Could you tell us about your role at Cartier? 
Pierre Rainero (PR): My role at Cartier is twofold, though closely intertwined. On the one hand, I oversee the image and style aspects of the brand, and on the other, I’m responsible for preserving and sharing the heritage of the maison. The style component is central to my work, which is why understanding and passing on Cartier’s heritage is so crucial. Every day, I collaborate closely with the creative studios to ensure that our designs reflect the essence of Cartier, both in terms of our history and in how we evolve moving forward. It’s about knowing who we are, where we come from, and how we want to evolve, while always staying true to the Cartier spirit. At the same time, I’m involved in our creative committee, where new projects are presented, discussed, and decided upon. The role involves balancing the visible parts of the brand with the underlying questions of why and how we design, constantly adapting while remaining true to the core values of the house.

How does the innovative design of the new LOVE Unlimited reflect the evolution of modern love?
PR: The LOVE bracelet has always been a symbol of attachment and engagement, and the LOVE Unlimited is an evolution of that concept. While the essence of the design remains firmly rooted in the original, what distinguishes this new model is its suppleness—something you can only feel while wearing it. From a distance, it might look like a simple gold bracelet, but its flexibility and the tactile experience it provides are key. It’s subtle and sensual, offering a whole new way to connect with the piece. We also wanted to ensure that the new design stood on its own, not merely as a variation of the original but as something desirable in its own right, even for someone who may not have any prior connection to the LOVE bracelet. The incorporation of the screw mechanism was vital—it maintains the symbolic function of the original design while enhancing the sense of pleasure and playfulness when worn. There’s also the idea of unlimited love; by allowing the wearer to stack multiple bracelets and create a longer piece, the bracelet becomes a personal narrative, an evolving story of love that lasts.

Cartier’s creations are often described as timeless. What, in your opinion, defines true timelessness in design? 
PR: At Cartier, we are deeply committed to the concept of perenniality, creating pieces that transcend trends and whims. Jewellery is precious; it’s meant to be worn, enjoyed, and passed down through generations. When we design, we think beyond the object itself to its lasting value in people’s lives. The beauty of timeless design is its ability to remain relevant across different eras, to evolve with changing tastes without losing its identity. Timelessness, for us, is about balance and striking the perfect equilibrium between the new and the familiar, between daring innovation and the integrity of Cartier’s heritage. Each creation carries references from the past, layered with meaning, yet always offering something fresh.

How has Cartier managed to maintain its cultural relevance while innovating, particularly with such a revolutionary design as the LOVE Bracelet in 1969?
PR: The LOVE bracelet was indeed a revolutionary creation. What made it groundbreaking was its functionality, not just as a piece of jewellery, but as a symbol of love and commitment. The evolution of the LOVE bracelet reflects this, where each new iteration adds layers to the original concept without ever overshadowing its core message. In this way, Cartier has been able to stay culturally relevant; by being true to its identity but also embracing innovation, and responding to the changing needs and desires of the modern world. The challenge is finding that perfect balance, and it’s something we are constantly mindful of.

The LOVE Unlimited campaign juxtaposes Paris and New York, two cities that are deeply tied to Cartier's identity. How do these cities enhance the narrative of the LOVE collection?
PR: The connection between Paris and New York is integral to Cartier’s history. The LOVE bracelet was created in New York, a city that in the late 1960s embodied modernity and innovation. At the same time, Paris is where Cartier’s roots lie — both
in terms of the brand’s heritage and the artistic sensibilities that continue to inspire us today. The campaign is a reflection of the duality of Cartier: the French elegance and timeless beauty of Paris, alongside the modern, energetic vibe of New York.

Is there a particular era in Cartier’s history that you find yourself especially drawn to?
PR: While every period in Cartier’s history has its own charm and significance, I would say that today is the most exciting time. That said, every decade of Cartier’s history brought something new — whether it was the introduction of platinum in the early 20th century, the move towards abstraction in the 1920s, or the embrace of new materials and volumes in the 1930s.

If Cartier were a character in a film, who would play it? 
PR: That’s a tough one! But if I had to choose, I would say Heaven Can Wait (1943) comes to mind. There’s a particular scene in the film with the line, “Cartier never makes a mistake.”It’s a moment that perfectly encapsulates the brand’s legacy and the trust that people place in Cartier’s craftsmanship. The elegance and timelessness of the brand are represented through such a quote — something I think any portrayal of Cartier should carry. In a world where design and meaning often collide, Rainero’s approach to Cartier’s future is both grounded in the past and attuned to the present, easily reaffirming why the house continues to lead the way in creating jewellery.

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