When the Fashion Design Council of India announced that this year’s India Couture Week was going to be digital, we knew it was going to be intriguing — watching designers translate their flawless runway lewks into fashion films seemed like a mammoth of a task. The designers showcasing at India Couture Week 2020 took the idea of creating digital films into their stride, and created exquisite showcases, ranging from themes of nature to narratives of inclusivity, to showcase their exquisite designs. And the best part? We all had front-row seats to witness the aesthetic visual narratives. (Look ma, I made it!) Scroll on to see the highlights from all the collections featured at India Couture Week 2020.
Gaurav Gupta
In a collection that not only showcased sculptural, detailed couture forms but also focused on diversity, Gaurav Gupta’s Name is Love was a narrative that emphasized love — love for oneself, love for all genders, body shapes, ethnicities, sexualities, and love for inclusivity. The showcase, narrated over the spoken word, featured fluidity in the form of sculpted gowns embellished with non-traditional embroidery shapes and voluminous ruffles, and suits and jackets with black and polished bling. The show also featured trans, non-binary, and plus-sized models, along with same-sex couples, to underline the fluidity of the couture. Swipe through to have a look at Gaurav Gupta’s diverse, inclusive, fluid collection:
Suneet Varma
With a theatrical representation of the Indian Woman, Suneet Varma’s Timeless collection told the story of a woman who straddles two worlds — the one who embraces the romance of traditional, Indian couture and the modern woman, who lives in the now. The collection showcased couture that exuded glitz and glamour, complete with his signature floral embroidery, mirror work, and ruffled detailing, along with delicate embellishments and voluminous ruffles. The designer said, “I believe fashion is the politest way of speaking about sex, but I like the subtle, unspoken word, left to the wearer” — something that shines through his entire collection with the unexpected details, sheer fabrics, and the unique style of draping. Swipe through to have a look at Suneet Varma’s collection:
Watch the showcase here:
Amit Aggarwal
A self-proclaimed traditionalist, designer Amit Aggarwal’s collection was inspired by a theme he is eternally drawn to — nature. With a digital film shot entirely underwater, the designer’s collection harnessed the weightlessness, freedom, and power of the ocean, the sky and the earth, featuring futuristic designs. The surreal metallic, sculptured detailing gave a modern take to the designer’s signature striped accents, intricate hand embroidery, sequin-detailing, and organza. “We always tread a balance of the surreal and functionality of the garment. At the heart of it is our constant brand story of intricate craftsmanship and hand embroidery,” said Amit Aggarwal. Swipe through to have a look at Amit Aggarwal’s exquisite collection:
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Rahul Mishra
In a serene short-film short at the Tijara Fort Palace in Rajasthan, Rahul Mishra’s collection, Lotus Pond, was, as the name suggests, inspired by the lotus pond with diverse life, the psychedelia of the underwater scape, and the symphony of creatures surrounding it. The collection was an ode to the evolving ecosystem surrounding the lotus, filled with floral appliqué work, intricate detailing, and delicate embroidery onto a pastel colour palette, which was reflective of the theme. Swipe through to have a look at Rahul Mishra’s ethereal collection:
Watch the showcase here:
Dolly J
Designer Dolly J’s showcase, Gulenaar, featured elaborate yet functional bridal-wear, suspended between dream and reality. The designer’s collection weaves old and new, as heirloom chikankari marries western drapes, keeping the modern bride, and Indian weddings in mind. The intricate silver and gold threads have been handworked onto the jewel tones and pastels featured in the collection. The designer developed a special fabric for the collection, luxe silk organza woven with jacquard, which adds an extraordinary touch to the couture. Dolly J said, “Nothing can dim the light that shines from within; nothing is more impressive than a Gulenaar who does not seek validation as she is confident in the extraordinary way the Universe has created her.” Swipe through to have a look at Dolly J’s collection:
Watch the showcase here:
JJ Valaya
JJ Valaya’s Ottoman-inspired winter collection, Bursa, showcased intricate craftsmanship with the use of burnished metallics and golds, and transported the viewer to 14th-17th century Turkey. Bridging the gap between his previous collection, Tabriz, and his new collection, the designer sought inspiration from the famed Ottoman silks, Ottoman miniatures, and the art of Tezhip, or ornamented with gold. The collection revolved around the three essential silhouettes of Indian wedding wear — the lehenga, the sherwani, and the sari, along with the label’s new IKA jacket — in fabrics of silk and velvet, adorned with the designer’s signature crystals, pearls, beads, silk threads, and zardozi. Swipe through to have a look at JJ Valaya’s collection:
Watch the showcase here:
Reynu Taandon
In a collection meant for the traditional bride who draws inspiration from the contemporary, Reynu Taandon’s collection, Surkh, reimagines bridal-wear that is minimal, with a vintage touch. “I want my brides to look elegant and maintain the old world wedding charm in a contemporary way,” said the designer. Featuring her signature thread work with floral and geometric motifs, the collection consisted of four timeless colours — baby pinks, fuchsia, fuchsia reds and reds – on classic silhouettes. The chanderi collection was not only completely handwoven, but was also eco-friendly, filled with light zari work, block printing, gota patti work and patchwork, and was definitely an indication that you can never go wrong with timeless pieces. Swipe through to have a look at Reynu Taandon’s elegant collection at India Couture Week 2020:
Watch the showcase here:
Shantanu & Nikhil
The Resurgence, by designer duo Shantanu and Nikhil, is a collection that reimagines age-old, classic values, and can be described as an ode to hope. “The collection celebrates a renewed strength and power to adapt and rise again”, according to the duo, and highlights their contemporary sense of aesthetic and decadence in their signature, structural silhouettes with intricate zardozi, metallic colours, fluid drapes and goth appliqué work. The film, shot over five episodes, used an anti-architectural setting to add to the narrative of their collection made for the neo-luxe bride. Swipe through to have a look at Shantanu and Nikhil’s collection at India Couture Week 2020:
Watch the showcase here:
Kunal Rawal
Kunal Rawal’s digital showcase, Hide and Seek, combined deep-rooted traditional aesthetics and modern luxury for male occasion-wear. The collection focused on flattering silhouettes that worked with natural body-contours with lean cuts, and added a three-dimensional flair to the clothing with the designer’s signature embroidery in the form of French knots. The vast colour palette consisted of pastels, neutrals and military olives, which were accentuated with metallic gold and oxidised silver, for a minimal take on understated bling, and celebrated the legacy of Indian handcraft in a unique way. Swipe through for the highlights of Kunal Rawal’s collection for men:
Watch the showcase here:
Falguni Shane Peacock
Falguni Shane Peacock showcased their bridal couture collection with Spectacle Privé, a behind-the-scenes fashion film directed by them. The designers lent a unique, dramatised perspective that would “co-relate and recreate a reverie as the excitement from runway shows, and to exhibit the intrinsic effort put into every creation presented in each look.” Their collection infused traditional craftsmanship with contemporary techniques, with opulent, crystal detailing displayed in outfits of ivory, champagne pink, beige, and classic red hues. With a regal tone overarching their collection and the contemporary narrative of their film, the collection exuded luxury and timelessness. Swipe through to have a look at Falguni Shane Peacock’s opulent collection:
Watch the fashion film here:
Anju Modi
Designer Anju Modi’s digital showcase, Sindoori, focused on her narrative of the transition of the young Indian bride to a fiercely feminine woman in her clothing, as well as her film. With three overarching themes – she is innocence, she is mischief, and she is passion — the designer translated these into her clothing, with colour palettes ranging from soft, creamy ivory and muted marble tones, to ochres with ‘geeli mehndi’ tones, to reds with regal purples. The collection featured the designer’s signature mix of textile innovation and embroidery, with mashru, brocades, jamdani and pashmina complemented by zardozi with dabka and mukaish, along with foil prints that created a movement between the tones. Swipe through to have a look at Anju Modi’s female-inspired collection:
Manish Malhotra
In a showcase that was inspired by the Mughal era, Manish Malhotra’s collection was reminiscent of the majesty of old-world charm, re-interpreted with a modern palette that consisted of natural hues like teal, pistachio green, dusky pink, grey and maroon. The regal, opulent collection consisted of kalidar kurtas, khada dupattas, gararas and izar salwars for women, and jama, angrakha, and heavy shawls for men, created in fabrics of pure cotton silk, mashru, velvets and muslins, and accentuated with borders of gold and silver woven zari. The voluminous silhouettes remained true to Mughal style, with deft embroidery and fine layering, also placing emphasis on the purist workmanship of artisans and breaking away from fast fashion. Swipe through to see Manish Malhotra redefine Mughal style:
Watch the showcase here:
