In the rarefied Indian couture space, designer duo Abu Jani Sandeep Khosla have been a synonym for rare magnificence. Numerous references punctuate their couture creations as they collide whimsical, fantastical and colourful worlds. The duo is set to showcase 80 looks from their younger brands, Asal by Abu Sandeep and Mard by Abu Sandeep, at the upcoming India Couture Week in New Delhi. Over to the designers…
ELLE: While you’ve been doing independent showcases year after year, you’re returning to India Couture Week after a long time. What was the reason behind your absence on this platform?
Abu Jani: The gap wasn’t intentional. Fashion weeks are usually full of last-minute discussions about how a show should be presented, the front row, and other such details. With FDCI and Reliance as a brand partner, we are confident this time around about presenting ourselves the way we want to. We are showcasing our younger brands, Asal and Mard, for the first time in New Delhi, and this makes it an inspiring return for Abu-Sandeep because of the lovely clientele we enjoy here. It is also wonderful to show with one’s contemporaries. The process however is no different from a solo show. We aim to create the finest. And we ensure we showcase that finest to perfection. The Abu Jani Sandeep Khosla design signature is absolutely original, and we would like to showcase it in a completely unique way, too.
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ELLE: Abu Jani Sandeep Khosla’s physical showcases are synonymous with theatricality, pulsating music, and dance performances. What can one expect in this showcase?
Sandeep Khosla: A spectacular spectacle for the senses, our set is expansive and highly detailed. It is a sprawling Haveli, every room the scene of a whirlwind of activity. The collection celebrates a fairytale wedding with a 21st-century Princess Bride (Asal by Abu Sandeep) and a Prince Charming Groom (Mard by Abu Sandeep).
ELLE: How was the process of conceptualising this collection? How many looks are there in terms of menswear and womenswear?
Abu Jani: It’s a big show with eighty looks. You can look forward to a comprehensive dose of style and silhouettes by Asal and Mard. The intention is to be spoilt with an absolute feast of fashion.
ELLE: How important is Bollywood for your brand, and how crucial is a celebrity showstopper?
Sandeep Khosla: Our work has always been championed by society and actors. They were our first clients, and they remain our muses –from Dimple Kapadia and Jaya Bachchan in the ‘80s to Sonam Kapoor Ahuja and Deepika Padukone now. Bollywood loves Abu Jani Sandeep Khosla, and we love Bollywood. It is a natural and joyous partnership, and we love them walking our ramp. Asal and Mard, being our younger brands, require a fit as per the labels we are showcasing.
ELLE: What makes your atelier such a master of unapologetic maximalism?
Abu Jani: Our vision is maximalist. Our imagination and appetite for beauty and creativity are larger than life. We are passionate about complex creativity. Abu Jani Sandeep Khosla believes in layering, impossibly fine detailing, and craftsmanship in making magically timeless masterpieces. Design is Art. Art is Alchemy. More is most definitely more.
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ELLE: Today, we see similar bridal/couture offerings in the wedding space. Do knock-offs bother you?
Sandeep Khosla: Copycat designers are an absolute plague, and what’s even more galling is that fashion media and journalists don’t call them out on their lazy and unethical plagiarism. The high street always copies, but the designer industry is meant to be original.
