While India doesn’t have its own ‘Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode’ to lend that stamp of approval on domestic couture maisons, the amount of raw, sensational talent in our country can put anyone and anything to shame. We’re the pioneers and the torchbearers – these ‘acclaimed’ international maisons get their embroideries done in the narrow lanes of Mumbai, in case you didn’t know.
Having birthed from the bustling bridalwear scene, many Indian couturiers have certainly adopted sensibilities that pander to a global audience now, but the desi imprint persists valiantly, unperturbed. Step out for shopping in the posh, quaint lanes of Kalaghoda, and these couture wizards will greet you. There’s so much to explore, and if you’ve ever fallen prey to that quandary of finding the right fit for you, trust our zodiac listing to make your pick. And if you’re not looking to shop, it’s still a fun (and aspirational, we know) read otherwise.
Aries (March 21-April 19): Siddartha Tytler
The Tytler couture collections are an eclectic blend of multiple moods, all bound together by a propensity for bling and high-octane splendour. They feature intriguing structures, vibrant colours, and sharp cuts reminiscent of the Ram’s domineering persona.
Taurus (April 20-May 20): Tarun Tahiliani
Look, as a Taurean, I have taken full liberty to designate one of my favourites to my sign. If you ever attend a TT show, you’ll be blown away by the sheer intricacies and his impeccable ability to make couture feel like second skin. The bull confides in comfort and nothing like a well-fitted Tarun piece to entice the wearer.
Gemini (May 21-June 20): Gaurav Gupta
My Gemini coworker gave a nod of approval to this pairing, and that’s all I needed. Global sensation GG’s design signature is doused in duality and coexistence. Twins with the twin of the zodiac? Now, that’s a match made in heaven. They’ll easily pull off the acid yellow dresses and hooded gowns by the Maison without a doubt.
Cancer (June 21-July 22): Rahul Mishra
Rahul Mishra is well known for his dedication to traditional Indian crafts preservation and slow fashion. His emotive storytelling is why I think Cancerians will be drawn to this label. Serving as a symbol of empowerment and sustainability in the fashion industry also strengthens the case.
Leo (July 23-August 22): Falguni Shane Peacock
Falguni Shane Peacock is audacious and proud. The Leos will relate to and appreciate the power, heritage, and modernity — fundamental markers of the Peacock signature. Oh, and their logomania phase would seduce the maximalist in Leos.
Virgo (August 23-September 22): JJ Valaya
JJ Valaya combines elegance with grandeur, demonstrates a love of history, and finds immense charm in delving into the secrets of many cultures. For the perfectionist Virgo, the dutiful JJ Valaya shines bright with its humble manifesto of supporting craftspeople and meticulous design execution through Indian couture.
Libra (September 23-October 22): Manish Malhotra
Librans are lovers of vanity. There is nothing like an ornate Manish Malhotra number to entice the sociable admirers of all things beautiful. There’s so much to choose from; the offerings here are varied and cater to the oh-so-fashionably particular Libran.
Scorpio (October 23-November 21): Sabyasachi
You Scorpions, kindly consider yourself lucky because this is the absolute top-tier, cream of the fashion world. Having shaped the couture landscape, a Scorpio’s intensity finds a worthy companion in Sabyasachi. His designs are standalone art pieces, demanding all the attention when placed in a room. And the blazing reds, marvellous.
Sagittarius (November 22-December 21): Anamika Khanna
Fashion designer Anamika Khanna has received recognition for her ability to reimagine modern designs and always turns internally for artistic expression. A crafty Sagi and Khanna are a match made in heaven. This match aligns with her creative design approach, which is fundamental to her work.
Capricorn (December 22-January 19): Amit Aggarwal
Amit Aggarwal’s creations are skillfully crafted to complement the complex fabric of life, with an unwavering focus on inclusivity, sustainability, and versatility. It’s all just so perfect! As a fellow earth sign, I feel Capris will gravitate towards his forward design signature.
Aquarius (January 20-February 18): Rimzim Dadu
Obviously, I had to give Aquarians the most creative designer on the list. Rimzim Dadu’s inventive experimentation with unusual materials like silicone, industrial plastics, and metallic wires propels her as a creative disrupter, much like the air sign.
Pisces (February 19-March 20): Anita Dongre
The couture brand is renowned for reinventing the codes of Indian couture by fusing Indian handicraft traditions with international trends. Anita Dongre crafts each piece of clothing and accessory by hand, using social sustainability as its central theme. This timeless label finds an admirer in the deeply sensitive and rooted Piscean.
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