My first encounter with Kanika Goyal was back in 2020 – I was an eager intern at fashion week, ready to forge connections and conquer the universe. Fun times. She was entering the premises and I let out a howl (yes), and bombarded her with my admiration for her designs. I’m sure she doesn’t remember (for the greater good) but it’s a full circle moment for me as I sit down to wrap up my interview with her, four years later, regarding her debut at London Fashion Week.
Known for being a darling in the NYC fashion circles, all thanks to her relentless showcases in the big apple in the past few years, this time, she makes the move to London, with an aim to grow her global presence and explore new markets. Titled ‘Arc Echo’, the collection dives into the complicated tapestry of human memories and features funky mosaic coloured knits and accessories, manufactured from surplus leather. Here’s what Kanika Goyal had to say, when quizzed about her collection.
ELLE: Tell us about the inspiration and ethos of your Winter ‘24 collection ‘Arc Echo.’
Kanika Goyal: The Autumn / Winter ’24 collection, Arc Echo, delves into exploring the intricate tapestry of human memories, emotions and the interplay of past and future experiences. It aims to capture the richness and multifaceted nature of one’s inner self through “metaphorical mosaics” that depict the complexity and diversity of an individual’s thoughts and experiences. The ethos behind the collection involves harmoniously blending old and new elements, with a strong focus on repurposing and up-cycling surplus fabrics. The use of surplus denim and leather, along with a mix of fabrics like laminated crushed leather and creased taffetas, adds depth to the collection.
ELLE: Could you shed some light on your pivot from NYC to London? What separates the two markets and what are the commonalities?
Kanika Goyal: We wanted to expand our global presence and explore new markets, thus the move to London felt right for this season. While both, London and New York are influential fashion capitals, they differentiate themselves through their cultural influences, market positioning, and fashion infrastructure. London is often associated with creativity and experimentation, while New York is known for its commercial appeal, diversity, and global influence.
ELLE: What are the silhouettes, colour palettes and embellishments utilised in the collection?
Kanika Goyal: The silhouettes feature oversized jackets with exaggerated shoulders, biker jackets, oversized pants cinched at the knees, fitted skirts. The collection includes mosaic colourful knits, up-cycled denim pieces like jackets and pants made from interwoven surplus denim strips, as well as leather jackets and accessories crafted from surplus leather. The colour palette ranges from classic blues and greens to lilacs, with pops of copper and red, grounded by neutrals like black, beige and brown. Interesting fabrications include laminated crushed leather, cracked bonded taffetas, and creased taffetas for shirts.
ELLE: Your collection summed up in three words.
Kanika Goyal: Fun. Provocative. Bold.
ELLE: If you were tasked with the costume styling of a movie/ show using garments only from your new collection, which one would it be and why?
Kanika Goyal: Definitely the fully embellished dress with the brand’s monogram in ‘Gurmukhi’ as it represents everything that the brand stands for – fun, provocative and bold! I can just see it translating beautifully on the screen.
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