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Less Machoism And More Fluidity Was The Memo At Men’s Fashion Weeks A/W 2023

- Skirts > suits

Ruman Baig and Shaeroy Chinoy

January 22, 2023

Thawing the cold temperature worldwide with some sultry sartorial presentations—Men’s Fashion Week A/W 2023 couldn’t have been timed better. Marking the beginning of a busy season for fashion, Milan and Paris’ Men’s Fashion Weeks saw all the A-listers in attendance.

Both on the front row and the ramp, celebrities and the designers they paired up with managed to push the envelope. No more boring colour palettes and cuts, especially when the glamour gods from the fraternity were willing to experiment.

With a not-so-subtle feminine undertone in an otherwise masculine menswear fashion week, designers played with fluidity in their silhouettes and accessories. Continuing to take a leaflet out of Alessandro Michele’s genderless rule book, Gucci chose to follow the same path even in the post-AM era. Slightly less adventurous, the ensembles this season were soft, simple, oversized and crafted in dreamy pastel hues.

Dior welcomed BTS member and K-pop icon Jimin as their newest global ambassador, who along with his bandmate J-hope attended the house’s latest show. Both icons were dressed in Dior’s signature charcoal grey-toned attires, but J-hope’s pleated-skirt/joggers and sweatshirt hybrid silhouette definitely stood out. Layers were a recurring trend this season and Kim Jones managed to do it in his own unique way.

Speaking of skirts in studs—Robert Pattinson, another recent house member of Dior showed up in a sparkly grey skirt, paired with a fluffy brown sweatshirt. Bending all the boy rules with our resident vampire this time around, Alife a.k.a Lucien Laviscount also swayed the skirt way for Louis Vuitton. The recent heartthrob opted for a goofy printed, powder blue sweater styled with a pleated skirt-pant layered bottom, designed by Colm Dillane, who is filling in the gigantic shoes of late Virgil Abloh this season. Bringing his feisty Brooklyn energy to the ever-so-polished luxury house that is Louis Vuitton—Colm managed to create a ripple with his spunky and statement-making collection.

Not to be left far too behind, Emily Cooper’s OG love interest was also spotted sashaying down the runway in Paris in a rather contradicting look. Lucas Bravo, popular for playing the white-collared chef Gabriel in the Netflix show Emily in Paris did a complete 360 for the Louis-Gabriel Nouchi show. Influenced by ‘American Psycho’, the actor’s look was inspired by the murderer Patrick Bateman, originally played by Christian Bale. Even with specks of blood splattered across his chiselled face, one couldn’t really take the eyes off his impeccably tailored trench coat. Broad on the shoulders and tapered on the way down, unlike the regular straight-fit jackets, this one was boldly fluid in its structure and flare.

The fun element in menswear was always an exception and never the rule—changing the game for good, fashion labels decided to flip the switch once and for all. No archaic idea of how men are supposed to dress has been carried forward in this fashion week, each presentation interpreted androgyny in its own unique way. For a complete recap, here are some of our favourite looks from the recent Men’s Fashion Week.