Very few upscale restaurants in Mumbai can be called iconic. The Table, in the city’s chic Colaba neighbourhood most certainly qualifies. Established in 2011 by the acclaimed restaurateur duo Jay Yousuf and Gauri Devidayal, the multi-award-winning SoBo restaurant is celebrated for its farm-to-table, globally-inspired cuisine. Thirteen years after its inception, the restaurant has introduced a new menu signalling the arrival of The Table 2.0 with acclaimed Chef Will Aghajanian at the helm.
With a storied career that spans global kitchens in San Sebastián to New York City, Chef Aghajanian brings his unique vision and culinary flair to the menu, keeping comfort and simplicity in the forefront while maintaining the ethos of the restaurant, with seasonal picks and hero Indian ingredients. Loyal fans of the Table needn’t fret as some of their favourite dishes like the Sobo Salad and Tiramisu Alla Tradizionale remain untouched. My curiosity led me to book a proverbial table at the restaurant to experience its latest offerings.
Fresh & Fine
In classic fine dining style, my dinner began with a plate of bread, and I’m not complaining. As a bread enthusiast, I didn’t hesitate to pick up the warm brioche served with whipped goat butter. Just one bite of the soft, melt-in-your-mouth bread, and I was sold, already looking forward to what was coming next.
My meal continued with a texture play on my palate as I dug into some crunchy pappa al pomodoro toast and the smooth duck liver mousse with sour cherry. Then came the smoked salmon tostada tossed with dill and rocket leaves and garnished with cured trout roe, cutting the earthy flavours with some saltiness. Focaccia di recco with winter truffle, stracchino cheese and oven-roasted grapes, was devoured in minutes. Interestingly, it was a creative take on a wine-and-cheese pairing.
You can’t come to a farm-to-table restaurant and not indulge in the fresh pickings. The cold lollo rosso and guava salad accompanied with chicories, Kashmiri pistachio and belper knolle and the warm panzanella featuring crushed cucumber, shaved onion and summer tomatoes gave me a glimpse into The Table’s rich produce. Crab cakes get a fun DIY twist served in the form of a toast that requires you to cut it into slices with a pair of scissors, wrap it in a lettuce leaf and dip it in the pickle vierge. This dish won my vote.
The chilled ratatouille tian took me back to the dish featured in the 2007 animated film ‘Ratatouille’. Safe to say I had my Anton Ego moment when I dug into it and reached food heaven. The lobster fra Rothschild with nduja came wrapped in a dapper bow tie. It looked too pretty to cut into, but when I did, a symphony of tantalising flavours emerged. I may not be a fan of chicken liver but if you are, the garden herb fazzoletti, winter truffle and Tuscan chicken liver ragu from the pastas section is a good option. Marking the end of our mains with comforting flavours was the pan-roasted Cornish hen, warm chicory and confit gizzard panzanella, a classic dish that never goes wrong—winner-winner, chicken dinner!
For The Sweet Tooth
The Table is known for its desserts—the restaurant often sees guests who only want to indulge in something sweet. The new desserts have the same potential. While it’s mandatory to save some space for the beloved tiramisu, you must try the light, sweet and sour cherry jubilee meringue cake, which is perfect for two. I’m not a fan of marshmallows (don’t judge me) but serve it in the form of an ice cream with cacao nibs and toffee, and I’m game. Other must-tries include the passion fruit and mandarin creamsicle (a soft and crunchy meringue) and the Santa Rosa plum sorbet featuring prosecco.
Raise Your Glasses
You can’t miss out on the bar programme—tipplers are left spoilt for choice with an array of options to choose from. Take your pick from 100+ wine labels or choose from 14 signature craft cocktails concocted by the mixology team. What’s more? Every three weeks, a limited-time menu is introduced to highlight new cocktails. On my visit, the sustainable cocktail menu featuring four cocktails made with kitchen and bar trimmings caught my attention. The upcycled spritz, a lemon zest-infused gin with yuzu puree, herb bitters, prosecco and soda, piqued my interest the most and accompanied me throughout my dining experience.
The ambience remains untouched—you still have the striking black and white striped flooring with some mood lighting illuminating the corners and an open bar. Plus some upbeat music to liven up the space. What brings in the novelty are the drinks and food that still put a smile on your face. And if it has the ability to do that even after 13 years, it speaks for itself, doesn’t it?
Read the full story in ELLE India’s new issue, or download your digital copy via Magzter.
