Popularly referred to as the ‘Mother of Makeup’, Pat McGrath is the world’s most sought-after make-up artist who has birthed some of the most iconic beauty trends. If you’ve seen models walk down the runway during Valentino’s 2019 couture show with exaggerated feathered eyelashes, that’s Pat at work.
In her 25 years in the beauty industry designing looks for Dior, Givenchy, Valentino and Prada to name a few, Pat was a trailblazer on many counts. As Pat McGrath Labs forays into the Indian beauty industry with Nykaa exclusively, Pat collaborates with ELLE India to co-edit the season’s trend forecast using her brand’s best offerings.
Red Rebellion
Pat, who is known for her modern adaptations of the classic red lip says, “Shades of crimson and ruby on the lips are a forever trend.” Her ability to reinvent this iconic look is why red is always on her hot list.
Here’s how to get Pat’s signature red lip: The texture of the lips is vital here. Lips must be scrubbed and hydrated before the colour application. Let a generous layer of Lip Fetish Balm in Clear get absorbed while you do the rest of the make-up. When it’s time for the lipstick, tissue-blot the excess.
Next, use a sheer layer of foundation or whatever is left on the brush and lightly sweep it over the lips to prime them. Pick up the MatteTrance Lipstick in Forbidden Love, or a red of your choice, and apply it generously on the back of the hand.
Using a finger, swipe up the product on the fingertip and begin applying it on the lip, starting from the inner centre. Press and push the colour onto the lip with pressure, like a stamp. The heat from the fingertip warms up the product and it looks like a part of the lip instead of the product sitting on the surface. Continue this process until the lip is covered with rich, saturated colour. When you get to the edges and lip line, gently roll the fingertip over the area to create a modern, soft lip line. For volume, add a lighter shade of red to the centre of the lips.
In Bloom
“It’s time for the ‘return of the cheeks’. Masks are off and people want that healthy, rosy flush of colour. From translucent, soft layers to bold and face-framing blush—anything works,” Pat says.
Here’s how to blush without caution: Multidimensional, ombre-like cheeks mean layering multiple shades to create that perfect gradation from light to intense. Divine Blush is the perfect product to achieve this look because of the versatile shades available in this collection. Begin with a lighter shade of blush on the apples of the cheeks and blend until it looks ultra-soft and sheer.
Next, take a deeper shade and apply under the cheekbone where you would apply the contour—towards the ear and temple—framing the outer perimeter of the face. Take a clean brush and blend properly to ensure a seamless transition of colour.
Pro tip: If you have foundation left on the brush, apply it from the sides of the nose towards the apples of the cheeks to create an illusion that the pop of colour is coming from within. This also helps in blending (any) harsh edges.
Runway Worthy Skin
‘Skin is always in,’ Pat believes. Here’s her secret to a glass-like complexion: After applying skincare, massage Sublime Perfection Foundation over the face with spa-like motions that we use for moisturiser application. Warm the product in between the palms, and work outwards. Start from the centre, paying special attention to the ears and neck. Layer until the skin looks even and perfected. For areas that need more coverage, apply Sublime Perfection Concealer after the foundation in sheer layers, building up the product until you cover any imperfections, dark circles or blemishes.
Next is when you play with light and the skin becomes otherworldly. Using the Highlighter + Balm Duo, hit the seven go-to spots to light up the skin using fingers or brushes. These are the tops of your cheekbones, the bridge of your nose, inner corners of your eyes, the brow bone, cupid’s bow, centres of the eye- lids, and the centre of your chin.
