Phygitally driven fashion week is a norm and was yet again instrumentalised by designers in their haute couture collections this spring/summer 2021. Kim Jones, Maria Grazia Chiuri, Pierpaolo Piccioli and Virginie Viard whisk us away into parallel worlds of mirror maze, fantastical tarot reading, disco dance party and impending countryside nuptials – transcending beauty standards. From gold showers, idiosyncratic hair crowns, headbands and to our favourite – red lips for everyone and everything; Fendi, Dior, Valentino and Chanel’s makeup artists have set the ‘not so subtle tone’ of beauty for the year.
1. Gold Glitter Glam
View this post on Instagram
Pierpaolo Piccioli’s dance between body and mind; objects and individuals took gold glitters at the Valentino showcase quite literally. From gold eye shadows flowing out from the eye to the cheekbones, loud highlighters and even a full face of disco metallic paint – talk about elevating beauty – makeup artist Pat McGrath made sure the face had extravagance.
View this post on Instagram
For Maria Grazia Chiuri’s medieval Visconti-Sforza tarot cards inspired fantasy theme, makeup artist Peter Phillips made the ballgowns and capes sing with burnt gold eyes from Dior’s Jungle Eyeshadow Palette. Valentino and Dior brought gold front and centre in every which way – meaning it’s a showstopper from hereon.
2. Celestial Tiaras
View this post on Instagram
Paying homage to Monsieur Dior’s clairvoyance and superstitions with a tarot card reading, Chiuri’s fantastical Spring/Summer dreamy couture collection saw celestial crystal tiaras and headbands. Corresponding with duelling dichotomies of gold and black hues of silk, velvet, chiffon or jacquard fabrics, interspersed in the opulent world of Visconti-Sforza’s 15th-century deck, hair designer Francesco Pegoretti conceptualised ornate tiaras alongside Dior Atelier. Cascading waves, ringlets buns and braids, held up metallic crowns in gold and silver in synchronisation with specific card impressions as seen in the short film unveiled by the brand – Le Château du Tarot.
3. Venetian Glass Combs and Wet Hair
View this post on Instagram
At Kim Jones’s debut womenswear Charleston Farmhouse spirit star-studded showcase walked by Naomi Campbell, Bella Hadid, Demi Moore, Kate and Lila Grace Moss among other supermodels, saw wet hair and glass hair accessories. Hairstylist Sam McKnight wanted to capture a moment of being caught in the rain, with a folded chignon at the back which starts to undo, in alignment with Jones’s conception. Elevating the hairdo with glass combs spun with Venetian glass, McKnight presented a fluid and genderless wet look for models.
4. Rouge Androgyny
View this post on Instagram
Red lips were seen on men and pink hues on women, at Fendi’s couture show courtesy of makeup artist Peter Phillips. Blurring the lines between gender and time, male models were seen adorning the statement rouge while breaking the stereotypes on the ramp. With metallic smoky eyes, a dewy cheek arching under the wet look sans being actually wet. Reiterating the significance of a bold red lip Jones affirmed that it can never be passé, rather is a pivotal tool in androgynous beauty.
5. Floral Hair Crowns
View this post on Instagram
At Chanel’s bohemian style wedding on the south of France show, Virginie Viard takes the sarcasm out of “Florals for spring? Groundbreaking!” with voluminous flower tiaras in hues of red, white, powder pink, purple and blue with a hint of metal. Amalgamating florals with dewy natural cheeks, strong brows and smoky eyes exuding a lived-in vibe makeup artist Lucia Pica went subtle. Aligning with the Viard’s vision, the hair was tucked in neat centre-parted gel bun and low pony reminding us that they are the chic afternoon nuptial hairdo.
