I'm lounging on a hammock, except this isn’t just any hammock—it’s suspended mere centimetres above the sea, stretched between two rocks, gently swaying with the waves. My partner and I are soaking up the sun and the view of the Adriatic Sea sparkling in the sunlight at a private beach at Maslina Resort in Stari Grad, Croatia. With chilled glasses of beer, we fully embrace the unhurried rhythm of island life. Following a sunbathing session, we decided to cool off by dipping in the Adriatic, now recognised as the cleanest swimming water in all of Europe.

We arrived at Stari Grad, a serene town on the northern side of Hvar island, via a ferry ride from Split earlier that day. Although Hvar is Croatia’s extravagant party capital that attracts A-listers, we spent the rest of our Croatian vacation on the quieter side of the island. Maslina Resort, a Relais & Châteaux retreat located close to the Stari Grad port, was the perfect escape from Hvar town’s pulsating nightlife.

Mindful Luxury

‘Maslina,’ meaning ‘olive’ in Croatian, is a nod to the surrounding olive groves that paint the landscape. With 50 elegant rooms and suites, three luxurious villas, and expansive grounds that stretch across two hectares of lush pine forest, the resort blends seamlessly into its natural surroundings, offering an idyllic retreat overlooking the Adriatic Sea.

We were in the Panoramic suite, which offered uninterrupted views of the sea and the gorgeous hotel pool. In contrast to the bright bedroom, the dimly-lit bathroom features a wooden bathtub where you can enjoy lavender bubble baths. The basin, made from limestone from the neighbouring Brač Island, highlights Maslina’s sustainable philosophy.

Maslina is big on wellness. The resort hosts a range of complimentary in-house experiences like yoga and sound healing. But the real deal is the spa at the two-storey Pharomatique Wellness Centre where you can treat yourself to a traditional massage. And, of course, there’s the private pebble beach (that I described earlier), just across the hotel, accessible by foot. However, I recommend taking the hotel’s bicycle and riding there to absorb the beauty of the Adriatic coast.

The cuisine at Maslina’s Michelin-recommended restaurant respects local and seasonal produce with ingredients harvested from the hotel’s 7,000 sqm organic garden. We got a taste of the cuisine during a romantic seaside dinner. We devoured a four-course meal, which included fresh seafood, meat and greens, with a glass of wine while enjoying a gorgeous sunset.

Exciting Excursions

Whether you’re an adventure enthusiast or a gourmet traveller, Maslina’s expert team will craft an experience tailored to your interests. You could explore the Adriatic through speedboat excursions, diving or paddleboarding, or hike scenic trails through olive groves, lavender fields and vineyards. To get a more cultural experience, we opted for the offbeat Pharos Story Island Discovery Tour.

The tour begins at the Stari Grad town—one of Europe’s oldest towns, founded by the Greeks who arrived there from the island of Paros. Dotted with traditional restaurants, bars, art galleries and boutique shops, this colourful, rustic town is best explored by strolling its cobblestone streets. Visit the Stari Grad Museum to learn about the town’s landscape and history, and head to the UNESCO-protected Stari Grad Plain—‘the belly’ of the island that has fed its people since the ancient Greeks roamed.

Our tour also included tasting some exceptional red, white, and orange wines at the local Lacman Family Winery. We dined at Konoba Zbondini, a family-run restaurant in the charming town of Velo Grablje, where we indulged in the traditional Dalmatian dish Pašticada (braised beef dish) with gnocchi. Our excursion ended with a one-hour tour of Hvar town. Starting at the Hvar fortress, we were treated to a breathtaking panoramic view of the town below and the neighbouring islands on the horizon from this vantage point.

Although our tour had ended, we continued to explore the town’s coastal restaurants, neighbourhood bars and buzzing nightlife. I picked up lavender oil bottles as Croatia is known for its lavender fields.

The next morning, as we prepared to check out, I realised I had forgotten to grab some olive oil, another Croatian special. However, as we departed, the hotel team surprised us with a bottle of housemade olive oil—an unexpected and delightful memento. We headed back to Split in a Maslina speed boat, which offered an adrenaline rush, unlike our calming ferry ride to the property. Our stay at Maslina Resort was the perfect blend of relaxation, luxury, adventure, and culture, making our Croatian holiday truly unforgettable.

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