“I’m heading for a tasting at Indian Accent,” I tell my friend over a call ahead of its launch in Mumbai. He shrieks in excitement; he’s been to the restaurant thrice in New Delhi, and tells me that I must not leave before having the Blue Cheese Naan and Daulat ki Chaat. “Obviously! I’m looking forward to those in particular,” I assure him as I’m well aware of those dishes, among other signatures that practically changed the way Indian cuisine is perceived. And its credit goes to chef Manish Mehrotra, now the Culinary Director of Indian Accent.
When chef Mehrotra and restaurateur Rohit Khattar (of hospitality group EHV International) decided to open Indian Accent in New Delhi back in 2009, little did they know that it would stir things up in the culinary world; in a good way, of course. Introducing innovative Indian cuisine where traditional flavours meet global ingredients and techniques is a challenging space to get into, especially in a city like Delhi where people are passionate about North Indian food. Over time, they did the impossible as people gradually became open to experimenting and Indian Accent become a trendsetter in the fine dining space. The restaurant has never compromised on giving you the best experience, which is why it has sustained till today and has maintained a spot on the list of Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants for ten consecutive years.
The restaurant also has an outpost in New York since 2016. And now, Indian Accent is finally here to start its new chapter in Mumbai at the Nita Mukesh Ambani Cultural Centre (NMACC). I was lucky to visit the restaurant with my family before its official launch and enjoy a memorable experience.
The Ambience
A collaborative effort by London-based Russell Sage Studio, EHV’s Design Director Rohini Kapur and Director Development Vikas Bhasin, and architect Incubis Consultants, Indian Accent’s design draws inspiration from the city’s art-deco heritage.
The 75-seater restaurant opens its doors to a stellar walkway flanked by two private dining rooms on either side, of which one comes with a live kitchen for you to get a peak into all the BTS. Creating mystery and curiosity, the walkway leads me to the elegant dining area, where all the tables are positioned to face the view of the fountain at the NMACC. Naturally, we grab our seats by the floor-to-ceiling window. The fountains weren’t functioning that day, and we were denied a theatre experience. But when they do, I’m sure sipping on a glass of sparkling wine with the calming dance of the fountain will elevate the dining experience. The design of the exquisite bar is unmissable as it takes you back to the Jazz Age in the 1920s-30s.
The Menu
The kitchen at Indian Accent Mumbai is helmed by Head Chef Rijul Gulati who has worked for 8 years at Indian Accent under the guidance of Chef Mehrotra. While the menu features iconic crowd favourites, it also includes more seafood and vegetarian options to cater to the city’s dining habits and seasonal produce.
The Drinks
Varun Sharma heads the bar programme and has introduced new signature Jazz Age cocktails that take you down memory lane. Kevin Rodrigues, Head of Wines, has curated an expansive wine list featuring wines from across the globe, which pair well with the chef’s tasting menu. We enjoyed a glass of champagne and switched to the Chili and Orange Spritz to go with our meal.
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Appetisers
With its very first course, Indian Accent surpasses all my expectations. It begins with the dish I looked forward to–the Blue Cheese Naan, which melted in my mouth instantly. It is paired with the comforting Corn Shorba that comes in a custom handmade Manipuri shot glass, as explained by Chef Gulati who makes an appearance for a couple of courses to explain each dish in detail. Needless to say, our dinner was off to a good start.
The next round of dishes pays tribute to Indian street food. Smoked Eggplant with Maple Plantain, Churan ka Karela with Rice Cracker, Chhole Bhature with Pickled Green Chilli, and Dilli Papdi Chaat, which was my personal favourite from this fare.
The Pulled Lamb Dumpling, Aab Gosht, and Rice Puffs–a dish that pays homage to Kashmiri cuisine–was another pleasant surprise to my taste buds. The star of the appetisers though? The Indian Accent signature Meetha Achaar Pork Ribs, which wasn’t on the tasting menu but Chef Rijul generously prepared it for us and I’m more than happy to dig into it. The meetha achaar is an elevated chunda that most of us have grown up eating at home. Who knew it could taste so good with beautifully-cooked pork?
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Between the courses comes a palate cleanser in the form of Anar and Churan Kulfi Sorbet that took me back to my childhood days and reminded me of the Kaala Khatta Gola we all ate as kids. More than the flavour, I was fascinated by the way it is served–in a miniature pressure cooker, which I was quite tempted to steal and take back home as a memento.
Mains
Moving on to the mains, I thoroughly enjoy the Braised Pork Kofta and Punjabi Lobia that comes with a Bacon Chilli Glaze. The dish is a beautiful symphony of flavours and textures where a piece of crunchy bacon compliments the soft kofta. And before getting into the desserts, we have another classic–Stuffed Mushroom Kulcha with Black Dairy Daal, and Wasabi and Kakdi Raita which adds that zing to balance all the flavours.
Desserts
Before the arrival of the much-anticipated dessert, we indulge in delightful bite-sized Mishti Doi Cannoli and Pista Ki Luuj followed by the heavenly Warm Doda Burfi Treacle Tart with Homemade Vanilla Bean Ice-cream, which is absolutely rich and indulgent. But it’s only when the showstopper arrived that our eyes became wide at the mere appearance.
The Dault Ki Chaat is served with faux notes; not to forget the added drama courtesy of the smoke from the dry ice. It’s super airy when you dig your spoon into it and light as a cloud when you get a taste of it. The plate was swept clean within seconds. Need I say anything more?
Having finally tasted some of the dishes that took Indian cuisine to new heights, I can vouch for the fact that Indian Accent is definitely worth the hype. “It took fourteen and a half years for Indian Accent to arrive in the city but it was surely worth the wait!” I tell my friend on call after leaving the restaurant with a big smile on my face.
