ELLE Exclusive: In Conversation With Gaurav Gupta On His Latest Collection, Jyotirgamaya

Paris is buzzing with excitement for the fashion feast served in the last week of June was not for the faint hearted. Among the plethora of designers showcasing their work, I had the chance to preview Gaurav Gupta’s exquisite AW24 collection named Jyotirgamaya.

I am a lover of fashion, an appreciator of the art of design, and Gupta almost always serves what I can only describe as a delight to view and wear. While there seem to be mixed opinions on what the colour of the season is, Gaurav confirms what we’ve all known in our hearts by repeatedly using a deep red Bordeaux in many of the pieces in his collection. Join us as we delve into the intricate details and inspirations behind this stunning collection in this exclusive interaction with ELLE. 

ELLE: Can you tell us more about the inspiration behind this theme and how it is reflected in your designs? 

Gaurav Gupta (GG): The theme and Jyotirgamaya, a Sanskrit term meaning the journey from darkness to light, draws deep inspiration from Vedic philosophy and Egyptian mysticism. This collection reflects a transformative journey from unawareness to enlightenment, a narrative woven with threads of futurism and surrealism.

ELLE: How did you come up with the idea to incorporate the concept of darkness to light into fashion, and what message do you hope to convey through this collection? 

GG: The concept of darkness to light comes from a spiritual and philosophical foundation. We wanted to create a collection that reflects the transformational journey we all go through. With this collection, we’re showcasing transformation through our innovative techniques, telling a story that’s both visually and deeply compelling.

ELLE: Is there a particular piece from the collection that is your favourite, and why? 

GG: While it’s difficult to choose just one, the Moonstone Ivory pieces stand out to me. They embody celestial light and capture the essence of the spiritual journey. The intricate details and the way the fabric flows and reflects light make these pieces particularly special.

ELLE: This season’s standout colour is Bordeaux. What made you choose this colour, and how do you think it embodies the spirit of Jyotirgamaya?

GG: Yes, I think it embodies the transformative journey from darkness to light. Bordeaux, inspired by the deep-rooted reds in our culture, represents our heritage while pushing creative boundaries, reflecting the evolution of this iconic colour.

ELLE: Your collection features intricate details such as reptilian glass beading and crystal erosion. Could you elaborate on the techniques and materials used in creating these stunning pieces?

GG: In this collection, we’ve employed the ancient Aari embroidery technique, known for its infinity loops and hooked needle, along with Zari Zardosi embroidery using metallic threads. We’ve also integrated reptilian glass beading and crystal erosion to craft textures that echo the collection’s surreal and futuristic narrative.

ELLE: Who do you envision wearing pieces from the Jyotirgamaya collection? 

GG: These pieces are for those who view style as an expression of their inner journey. They are confident, bold, and unafraid to make a statement.

ELLE: Are there any particular styles or elements from this collection that you believe will set the tone for future fashion seasons? 

GG: The blend of traditional techniques with futuristic elements, like the use of metallic hues and sculpted forms, is something we believe will set a new direction in contemporary couture. Also, the introduction of artisanal jewellery in this collection, like the Chakra ear cuff and the Infinity ear cuff, highlights them as essential components of our design ethos.

ELLE: As you continue to innovate and shape the fashion industry, what legacy do you hope to leave behind, and how do you envision the future of your brand?

GG: We hope to leave a legacy of pushing the boundaries of couture by seamlessly blending tradition with innovation. Our aim is to create pieces that transcend time, becoming heirlooms passed down through generations. As for the future of our brand, we envision continued exploration of new techniques and materials, as well as global expansion to establish our physical presence in new markets.