What could be more poignant than taking your wedding vows adorned in a piece of jewellery passed down from your mother or grandmother? Heirloom jewellery in India has been above trends, always holding a revered place in wedding traditions. For centuries, our grandmothers and mothers have lovingly saved cherished jewels that they in turn inherited from their elders. Wearing ancestral jewellery on your wedding day is a profound gesture—one that, in many ways, signifies your ancestors bearing witness to your special day.
Timeless Traditions
This practice in fact transcends social and cultural boundaries. Whether it’s an intimate ceremony at home or the biggest wedding in the country, that ‘something old’ has always been a part of Indian tradition. Take for instance, the recent wedding of Anant Ambani and Radhika Merchant—the bride was seen in an ornate choker set that was also worn by her sister on her wedding day in 2020. Reportedly, this set was worn by her mother and maternal grandmother on their own wedding days as well. Isha Ambani Piramal too, is often seen swapping jewellery with her mother. For her wedding, Ambani Piramal wore her mother’s wedding sari as a dupatta along with bespoke family jewels.
During the recent wedding festivities, she was seen wearing her mother’s statement emerald necklace with matching earrings. Another noteworthy piece from the event was an ornate kamarband from Jadau Jewellery by Falguni Mehta. Mehta who has been working with the Ambani family for the last fifteen years shares her experience of creating the custom heirloom-inspired style. “We wanted to create something floral and delicate that enhanced the whole look. The Ambani family has always had a fabulous eye for detail, and have been open to trying new things while retaining the intrinsic value of old pieces.”
Globally too, celebrities have chosen to wear family heirlooms for their wedding. Kate Middleton and Meghan Markle wore a sapphire ring and an aquamarine ring, respectively—both prized inheritances from their mother-in-law, the late Princess Diana. Hollywood stars like Reese Witherspoon, Natalie Portman, and Kate Hudson have also embraced this practice, adorning pieces passed down from their families for their weddings. Closer home, Bollywood actresses Kareena Kapoor Khan, Soha Ali Khan and Deepika Padukone have proudly made a case for wearing ancestral pieces in recent times.
Sentimental Realness
Pune-based fashion and food entrepreneur, Eshieta Deosskar, who recently tied the knot with her husband Sarthak Lohade at Lake Como, wore treasured family pieces like a choker, rani haar and kadas during her wedding ceremony. Deosskar shares the special significance behind her decision, “This jewellery came from my mother-in-law. It was meaningful because I was carrying this legacy despite being so far from home. This was the jewellery she wore on her wedding day and since she doesn’t have a daughter she accepted me into her life as one.” While wearing traditional Maharashtrian jewellery was always on the cards for Deosskar, these pieces added a whole lot of sentimentality and magic to her pheras.
Crafting Timeless Heirlooms
So, what does it actually take to create a piece that’s heirloom-worthy? Designer Sunita Shekhawat whose eponymous label is known for its ornate pieces lets us in on how she approaches the assignment, “With each collection, my idea is to craft timeless designs that can be passed on to the next generation. Each piece we create is customised to build an emotional bond and to age into a priceless family heirloom.”
Often, old jewellery requires refurbishment, no doubt a painstaking and meticulous task. Tarang Arora, CEO & Creative Director, Amrapali Jewels takes us through the delicate process, “Our key considerations are to honour the original design and craftsmanship while ensuring the piece is functional and relevant for modern times. We have to enhance the wearability without compromising the historical and sentimental value it holds. Balancing preservation with versatile functionality ensures the heirloom continues to be cherished and enjoyed for generations to come.” Arora has experimented with reversible, modular and multifunctional elements to create designs that are both simpler and more adaptable, all while retaining their intrinsic value.
Read the full story in ELLE India’s Wedding Book, or download your digital copy via Magzter, available free with our latest issue of ELLE India.
