I live far far away from the auction lands where pennies flow in abundance and art finds a devoted homekeeper. But the intrigue sure knows no bounds. Which is why tails started wagging and chatter filled up the fashion circles as it was announced that late fashion designer Alexander McQueen’s sketchbooks were about to be put on sale. Let’s talk prices? Well, that’s the million dollar question. In the past we’ve had Karl Lagerfeld and Edith Head’s sketches sell for thousands of dollars, so it’s safe to conclude that this sale is going to be meaty.
The 54 original sketches, some from his time at Central Saint Martins offer a rare look at his early trysts with fashion. The best part? His Givenchy Spring-Summer 2001 studio book, which includes 47 pieces from McQueen’s final haute couture collection for the house. There are notes on experimental materials like cellophane and snakeskin and polaroids of toiles and fittings revealing the early stages of iconic pieces like corseted dresses and draped jumpsuits, giving us insight into how McQueen’s genius translated from concept to reality. Love.
One will also find bridal designs featuring spiked bodices, a McQueen classic showcasing his unique ability to fuse beauty and shock value. His willingness to experiment with shape and texture is further showcased in the xeroxed sketches from the 1990s alongside sketches, fabric swatches, and photographic inspirations drawing from sources like the Chinese textiles and 18th-century European tailoring. It’s like travelling through the Silk Route with the fashion designer.
After Lagerfeld’s passing in 2019, the sale of his sketches was seen as a fitting tribute to a designer whose influence was unparalleled. Known for his time at Chanel while also maintaining his role as creative director at Fendi, his career was marked by a relentless work ethic, producing more than a dozen collections a year, a feat that speaks both to his creativity and his commercial genius.
In 2022, Sotheby’s auction of Karl Lagerfeld’s sketches demonstrated the lasting power of the late designer’s legacy. The auction by the way, surpassed its expected value by more than three times. The industry sure scratched its head that day. The ‘white glove’ sale, bringing in 350,406 euros included sketches from Lagerfeld’s private collections in Paris, showcasing his work from four decades. The real star amidst the standout pieces was a vibrant 1970s Chloé sketch, which sold for 40,320 euros, the highest price of the evening. Cha-ching!
Edith Head was one of the most celebrated costume designers in Hollywood and has 35 Academy Award nominations and eight wins to her name. But beyond her impressive credentials, Head’s audacity was her most defining trait. In 1923, when she spotted a job opening at Paramount, she cleverly passed off her students’ designs as her own to land the position—a move that set the tone for a career built on both talent and cunning. Phew.
At an auction at Doyle a few years ago, the repertoire featured twelve original sketches by Head–two designs for Grace Kelly’s costumes in To Catch a Thief fetched $5,000 each, while a partial sketch for Judy Garland in I Could Go On Singing sold for more than double its estimate. These sketches were owned by Emerio Gonzalez, a passionate collector who has spent over three decades acquiring iconic costume designs. It’s the rousing passion that counts, as seen in people who are pure admirers of designs once brought to life by the finest ever seen.
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