There are two new tandoor ovens in the heart of Soho, and they are hard at work. Floyd Cardoz, the award-winning chef and the man behind The Bombay Canteen has set up shop (for the second time) in New York with Paowalla, a New Yorker-friendly take on Indian cuisine in a casual, modern atmosphere. (Another Indian restaurant we love on foreign shores is Talli Joe, in London.)
The 72-seater space resembles a Goan home, awash with sunshiney colours and accents reminiscent of the Goan and Portuguese coasts. (Maybe once you get here you’d want to pull those Insta skills) ‘Paowalla’, which roughly translates to ‘a person who transports bread’ or ‘well travelled bread’; features a bread bar and wood-burning oven used to make the Goan breads that Cardoz grew up with. There is a dedicated section on the menu for breads and chutneys, serving basics such as Garlic Naan and Tibetan Tingmo; and fun twists like Bacon Naan. A rack of house made chutneys are offered as accompaniments, with options such as Mango, Spicy Chili, Tamarind, Mint Cilantro, Lemon and Tomato Kalonji.
There is plenty on offer for those who prefer safe bets, like their Bombay Wada Pao and Egg Kejriwals but for those with a more adventurous bent, go for their Goan Choriz and Bacon Biryani or their Rice-flaked Halibut with watermelon curry. Also, if you’re feeling nostalgic, wash down a hearty meal with Tabla’s signature cocktail: the Tamarind Margarita with tequila, tamarind paste, fresh lime, orange and simple syrup.
If you can’t be in New York, fret not: here are eight exciting new places to try, closer to home.
195 Spring St, New York, NY 10012. Tel: +1 212-235-1098
