ELLE Exclusive: M.Micallef On Crafting Desire, One Perfume At A Time

What happens when luxury meets artistry in a bottle? M.Micallef has been setting the bar in haute perfumery with hand-painted flacons and boundary-pushing blends that bottle pure desire. Now, the brand is turning its gaze to India with the launch of DésirToxic L’Intense and Ô Féminin—two scents dripping in sensuality and sophistication. In this ELLE exclusive, Geoffrey Nejman—joined by Martine Micallef—spills the secrets behind their signature blends, the art of balancing nature with luxury, and what it truly takes to create fragrances that leave a trail of intrigue.

ELLE: M.Micallef is known for blending natural essences—what is the secret to balancing nature and luxury in a single bottle?

Geoffrey Nejman (GN): From the very beginning, our vision was to merge art with perfume. Each bottle is crafted with artistic flair—hand-painted, sometimes adorned with Swarovski stones, and produced on an artisanal scale, ensuring every piece is unique. But luxury is not just in the design; it’s also in the fragrance. We source the finest natural ingredients from around the world while incorporating select synthetics to enhance longevity and stability. Our perfumers, based in Grasse—the fragrance capital of the world—are experts in blending nature with sophistication, resulting in scents that are both opulent and enduring.

ELLE: Each perfume tells a story. What emotions or moments did you want to capture in Désirtoxic L’Intense and Ô Féminin?

GN: The fragrance landscape has changed dramatically in the past few years. Today’s younger generation craves scents that are modern, daring, and unique. Ô Féminin is a radiant burst of orange and orange blossom, a festival of fruity, floral delight that embodies confidence and femininity. Désirtoxic L’Intense, on the other hand, is a deeper, bolder take on its predecessor. With its woody, spicy notes—and even a hint of cannabis leaf—it’s an intoxicating and rebellious scent, designed for those who embrace mystery and magnetism.

ELLE: How do you decide on the perfect blend of ingredients for a new fragrance? Is it instinct, experience, or something more?

GN: It’s a combination of instinct, experience, and global inspiration. Travel plays a significant role in our creative process. Meeting people, understanding different olfactory cultures, and observing market trends help us craft something truly special. Our team in Grasse meticulously balances tradition and innovation, ensuring every fragrance is both timeless and trend-forward.

ELLE: What’s the most unexpected ingredient you’ve ever worked with, and how did it change the composition of a fragrance?

GN: Without a doubt—oud. In the early 90s, during a visit to Dubai’s souks, we discovered the rich, resinous scent of oud, which was virtually unknown in Western perfumery at the time. We brought it back to Grasse and blended it with French formulations, and the result was extraordinary. Our first oud perfumes, M.Micallef Oud and M.Micallef Rose Oud were instant hits, merging Eastern tradition with French refinement. Today, oud is everywhere, but we take pride in having been pioneers in introducing it to the luxury fragrance world.

ELLE: If you could describe the DNA of M.Micallef in just three scent notes, what would they be?

GN: Vanilla—because it adds a gourmand, sensual quality to our compositions. Oud—because it represents our pioneering spirit and the rich depth of our fragrances. Jasmine—particularly the exquisite Sambac jasmine, for its luminous, floral elegance.

ELLE: Désirtoxic L’Intense and Ô Féminin are launching in India—how do you think Indian fragrance lovers will connect with them?

GN: India has a deep-rooted appreciation for fragrance, the floral, citrusy vibrancy of Ô Féminin will resonate beautifully with those who love fresh scents. Désirtoxic L’Intense, with its intoxicating blend of spices and woods, will appeal to lovers of bold, enigmatic fragrances. We are excited to see how these creations will be embraced by the Indian market.

ELLE: Your travels are a major source of inspiration—what’s the most breathtaking place that has influenced a fragrance?

GN: One of our most unforgettable experiences was discovering oud in the souks of Dubai in the 90s. The entire city was scented with it—it was almost spiritual. Bringing that discovery back to France and incorporating it into our perfumes changed the industry. That moment of exploration and innovation remains one of the highlights of our journey.

ELLE: If you could bottle the essence of India into a fragrance, what would it smell like?

GN: India’s olfactory identity is incredibly rich. If we were to capture it in a bottle, it would be a fusion of Sambac jasmine—one of the finest jasmines in the world and spices. It would be an intoxicating blend of floral opulence and exotic depth, much like the country itself.

ELLE: Many niche perfumers chase exclusivity, but M.Micallef fragrances feel personal and intimate. How do you strike that balance?

GN: Unlike mass-market brands, we build relationships with our customers. Through social media, personal interactions, and our artisanal approach, we create a sense of belonging. Our hand-painted, unique bottles make each perfume feel like a personal treasure. The emotional connection between our brand and our customers is what truly sets us apart.

ELLE: How do you hope Indian fragrance lovers will connect with these new launches?

GN: We hope that Indian perfume enthusiasts will embrace these fragrances not just as scents, but as personal statements. With the right marketing and storytelling, we aim to build a passionate community of M.Micallef lovers in India—because luxury perfume is not just about exclusivity, but about connection, artistry, and experience.