ELLE Exclusive: What Emily In Paris’ Hair Is Really Telling Us

On Emily in Paris, the outfits get the screenshots, and the shoes get the memes. But if you’ve really been watching, you know this: Emily Cooper’s hair has been telling its own story all along.

From the wide-eyed curls of season one to the sharp French bob that now defines her, Emily’s hair hasn’t just changed. It has grown up. Less decoration. More intention. And according to celebrity hairstylist Mike Desir, that evolution was never accidental.

“When Emily arrives, she’s an American discovering a new city,” Desir tells ELLE. “At the beginning, her hair reflects that. It’s expressive, optimistic, and sometimes a little bold. As she immerses herself in Paris, she wants to understand the culture and slowly become more French in her approach. Through the seasons, her hair evolves with her confidence. The shapes become cleaner, the lines more intentional. It’s less about decoration and more about identity.”

It’s a line that could double as Emily Cooper’s thesis for growing up.

Hair, But Make It Character Development

For Desir, hair is never just about beauty. It is about where a woman is in her life.

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“Life is a journey. We constantly grow, change, and move in new directions,” he says. “Our emotions guide our style, and our experiences shape how we wear our hair. Today, Emily’s hair reflects confidence, femininity, and emotional maturity.”

What he’s describing feels instantly familiar. The moment when your look changes because you have. When chaos settles into clarity. When you stop trying to impress and start trying to be.

The Bob That Meant Letting Go

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That’s why the French bob in the latest season felt bigger than just a great haircut.

“That haircut represents a new chapter,” Desir explains. “Emily leaves her office, moves to Rome, and begins a different life in a new place. Sometimes, cutting your hair is about letting go of the past. It’s a way of expressing maturity, vulnerability, and renewal. The bob is minimalist, but emotionally rich. It shows confidence without excess, and a woman who is comfortable with herself.”

Every woman knows this instinct. When life shifts, the scissors come out. Desir just gets to do it on screen, for millions to watch.

70% Technique, 30% Life

If Emily’s hair looks effortless, it is because a lot of discipline sits behind that ease.

“It’s all about balance,” he says. “For me, it’s 70% technique and 30% life. The hair must feel lived-in, never overworked. The only exception is the straight bob. That’s a signature look. It’s meant to convey confidence, structure, and presence.”

Hair, for him, should always feel alive. It belongs to a woman who moves through the world, not a mannequin.

Hair Never Works Alone

One of Desir’s strongest beliefs is that hair only makes sense when it lives inside a bigger picture.

“I start by understanding the scene: what Emily is doing, who she’s interacting with, and the emotional context,” he says. “Is it seduction, work, movement, stillness? Then I look closely at the costume. Hair never exists alone. It only works when it’s in harmony with the outfit and the story. When hair and costume align, they quietly guide the audience into the narrative.”

It is why the show’s beauty never feels random. It feels composed. Like every strand knows where it belongs.

Building Looks With Lily Collins

That sense of harmony comes from close collaboration with Lily Collins herself.

“I talk a lot with Lily, especially when I create mood boards,” Desir shares. “She brings her own instincts and emotions, which are essential to the process. We discuss the scene, whether she’s running, being glamorous, or processing something emotionally. From there, we refine together until the hairstyle feels right, both for the character and the moment.”

Less stylist-client, more creative partnership. And it shows.

When Netflix Hair Becomes Real-Life Hair

Scroll through Instagram or walk into a salon and you will see it. The waves. The fringe. The bob.

“It’s always a surprise, and very touching, to see women wearing these looks in real life,” he says. “The show has inspired trends, especially wavy hair, fringes, short haircuts. In season two, the fringe always had to be present and never hidden. In the last season, it was about playing with the short bob in different ways to express emotions.”

From screen to street, Emily’s hair has become a global language.

The Hardest Part: Making It Look the Same Again

Behind the glamour lies the grind.

“Sometimes we have just one hour in the morning for new hair and makeup,” Desir says. “Continuity can be the hardest part. Recreating a look days or weeks later, often between completely different scenes and hairstyles. You have to know your products perfectly and sometimes sacrifice one or two steps to achieve the same result.”

That instinct, he says, comes from experience. “Like fashion week, when a model arrives five minutes before the show and you still need to make it work.”

Discipline, disguised as ease.

Hair Is Identity

Ask Desir what hair really means to him, and he does not hesitate.

“Hair is identity,” he says. “From morning to night, it shapes how we feel and how we present ourselves. Hair carries emotion, femininity, confidence, seduction, and strength. Every feeling has its expression through hair. We just need to know how to give voice to it.”

In a culture obsessed with trends, his approach feels quietly radical. Hair is not about what is new. It is about what is true.

Growing With Emily

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For Desir, Emily in Paris has been a defining chapter in his own journey, too.

“I’m deeply grateful,” he says, referencing his Guild Award recognition and Emmy nomination for hairstyling on the show. He also credits collaborations with brands like Lelet NY, Mâra Paris, and Epona Valley for elevating Emily’s hairstyles through carefully chosen accessories.

But the growth has been personal as well. “During filming, I rediscovered passions I had put aside when I thought I needed to focus only on hair. Thanks to Lily, who saw that part of me, those passions are now back in my life, alongside my work on set.”

Beyond “That Looks Nice”

So when viewers notice Emily’s hair, what does he really want them to feel?

“For me, it’s always about how the audience recognises the character in their daily life,” Desir says. “Hair works with outfits, shoes, posture, everything. Through texture, movement, and shape, it shows where the character is emotionally. A soft blow-dry can suggest ease or romance. An updo can show control, restraint, or elegance. A chic, avant-garde updo can signal confidence, power, or transformation.”

Hair as a storytelling tool. Quiet, but powerful.

And maybe that is why Emily Cooper’s hair hits the way it does. Because somewhere between the curls and the bob, between Paris and Rome, between ambition and belonging, it is really telling a story we all recognise.

The story of becoming.

Mike Desir’s Emily in Paris Set Kit

A look at the tools and formulas Desir relies on to give Emily’s hair its signature texture, shine, and structure on screen.

Rozhair – The Foundation Shampoo & Conditioner
“They’re my go-to products. Essential for creating a high-quality base before styling.”
Christophe Robin – Instant Moisturizing Mist with Aloe Vera
“I’m very minimalist. I use this to hydrate the hair and add shine.”
Dyson Supersonic Nural
“For a structured bob, it helps me achieve a smooth, sleek, polished silhouette without compromising hair health.”
Love Chrome Comb (Scalp Guasha Gold)
“It disperses static electricity, which is crucial on short hair and clean bobs. It keeps the hair polished and alive, without overloading with hairspray.”
Gravity Face Pointer (for scalp massage)
“We carry tension on our scalp. Releasing this pressure improves circulation and creates a healthier environment for hair growth.”
Lucibelle Paris LED Hair Helmet
“It stimulates blood circulation, supports regrowth, improves hair vitality, and helps regulate excess sebum.”